{"id":52820,"date":"2026-04-01T09:18:11","date_gmt":"2026-04-01T07:18:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/?p=52820"},"modified":"2026-07-09T13:21:01","modified_gmt":"2026-07-09T11:21:01","slug":"laguna-san-rafael-si-ghetarul","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/laguna-san-rafael-si-ghetarul\/","title":{"rendered":"Laguna San Rafael \u0219i ghe\u021barul <\/br> Jurnal chilian - capitolul 9<\/span>"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

A durat o ve\u0219nicie p\u00e2n\u0103 s\u0103 ajungem la ghe\u021barul San Rafael. Am pornit la drum dis de diminea\u021b\u0103, mult \u00eenainte de r\u0103s\u0103rit, dup\u0103 un mic dejun m\u00e2ncat \u00een fug\u0103 \u0219i preg\u0103tit pe jum\u0103tate din seara anterioar\u0103. De data aceasta ghid ne-a fost o t\u00e2n\u0103r\u0103 care p\u0103rea foarte sportiv\u0103, pe care o chema, dac\u0103 memoria nu m\u0103 \u00een\u0219eal\u0103, Veronica. Ne-a preluat din centrul satului Puerto R\u00edo Tranquilo, ne-a \u00eembarcat \u00eentr-un microbuz \u0219i ne-a purtat timp de vreo dou\u0103 ceasuri pe Carretera Austral, pe un drum de piatr\u0103 sf\u0103r\u00e2mat\u0103, printr-un peisaj a c\u0103rui frumuse\u021be nu aveam cum s\u0103 o apreciem \u00een acea noapte \u00eentunecat\u0103. Oricum, mai mult mo\u021b\u0103iam.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

C\u0103l\u0103toria noastr\u0103 pe patru ro\u021bi s-a terminat undeva pe malul lui R\u00edo Exploradores \u0219i a continuat pe r\u00e2u \u00een jos p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een Bah\u00eda Exploradores, adic\u0103 golful \u00een care r\u00e2ul se pierde \u00een mare. V\u0103z\u00e2nd c\u0103 ne-am trezit de-a binelea din cauza frigului de la transbordare, Veronica ne-a \u00eenm\u00e2nat o foaie plastifiat\u0103 \u0219i a \u00eenceput s\u0103 ne explice cum st\u0103 treaba cu ghe\u021barul, scopul c\u0103l\u0103toriei noastre din acea zi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A\u0219adar, San Rafael este una dintre limbile ce coboar\u0103 din C\u00e2mpul de Ghea\u021b\u0103 Nord Patagonic, o \u00eentindere uria\u0219\u0103 de ghea\u021b\u0103 care alimenteaz\u0103 mai multe limbi glaciare. Una dintre ele ajunge p\u00e2n\u0103 la nivelul m\u0103rii \u0219i se opre\u0219te \u00een Laguna San Rafael. Laguna nu e \u00eens\u0103 un lac izolat, cum ai fi tentat s\u0103 crezi, ci cap\u0103tul unui fiord legat direct de Oceanul Pacific. Cu alte cuvinte, ghe\u021barul nu cade \u00eentr-o ap\u0103 dulce, ci \u00eentr-una s\u0103rat\u0103, care vine \u0219i pleac\u0103 odat\u0103 cu mareele. De fapt, laguna este chiar urma ghe\u021barului. Pe vremuri, limba lui cobora mai departe, ocup\u00e2nd spa\u021biul \u00een care ast\u0103zi e ap\u0103. Retragerea lui a l\u0103sat \u00een urm\u0103 aceast\u0103 deschidere care s-a umplut treptat cu ap\u0103 de mare. De aici \u0219i particularitatea locului. Ghea\u021ba se rupe \u0219i cade \u00een ap\u0103, iar buc\u0103\u021bile plutesc mai departe prin sistemul de canale p\u00e2n\u0103 ies \u00een larg. Laguna e doar o etap\u0103, nu un cap\u0103t de drum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Drumul nostru a urmat exact traseul apei. Dup\u0103 ce am ajuns \u00een Bah\u00eda Exploradores, am ie\u0219it \u00een fiord \u0219i am \u00eenceput s\u0103 urc\u0103m \u00eencet spre interior. Am str\u0103b\u0103tut mai \u00eent\u00e2i Golful Elefantes, larg \u0219i deschis, \u0219i abia dup\u0103 aceea am intrat \u00een lagun\u0103 printr-un canal \u00eengust. Prin urmare, nu era vorba de o destina\u021bie aflat\u0103 imediat dup\u0103 col\u021b. P\u00e2n\u0103 la ghe\u021bar mai aveam de mers, \u0219i \u00eenc\u0103 destul.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Retragerea ghe\u021barului s-a accentuat mult \u00een ultimii ani, iar lucrul acesta l-am sim\u021bit \u0219i pe pielea noastr\u0103. Anul trecut, la \u00eenscrierea \u00een excursie, Cristina ne propusese dou\u0103 variante prin care am fi putut cunoa\u0219te ghe\u021barul. Prima era plimbarea cu barca, pe care o f\u0103ceam acum, iar a doua un trekking pe ghea\u021b\u0103. \u00centre timp \u00eens\u0103, autorit\u0103\u021bile chiliene au interzis accesul pe ghe\u021bar din motive de siguran\u021b\u0103. Ghea\u021ba a devenit mai instabil\u0103, cu fisuri \u0219i pr\u0103bu\u0219iri greu de anticipat, pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce topirea s-a accelerat. Nu mi-a p\u0103rut prea r\u0103u, eu oricum optasem pentru barc\u0103. De c\u00e2nd am fost \u00een Bhutan, unde e interzis prin lege s\u0103 urci pe unele v\u00e2rfuri, m-am molipsit de la ei \u0219i mi-a r\u0103mas ideea asta \u00een cap. De fapt o aveam \u0219i \u00eenainte, dar acolo mi s-a confirmat. Nu simt nevoia s\u0103 merg peste tot unde se poate merge. M\u0103 mul\u021bumesc s\u0103 privesc unele lucruri de la distan\u021ba cuvenit\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ziua a fost \u00een general mohor\u00e2t\u0103, dar am prins pe drum \u0219i pu\u021bin soare, dar \u0219i pu\u021bin\u0103 ploaie. Nu \u0219tiu dac\u0103 a fost sau nu \u00een avantajul nostru faptul c\u0103 nu am prins soare puternic c\u00e2nd am ajuns \u00een fa\u021ba peretelui de ghea\u021b\u0103. Veronica spunea c\u0103 e mai bine a\u0219a, c\u0103 lumina f\u0103r\u0103 soare las\u0103 s\u0103 se vad\u0103 mai bine nuan\u021bele ghe\u021barului. Posibil s\u0103 fi avut dreptate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cu pu\u021bin \u00eenainte s\u0103 ajungem, am z\u0103rit c\u00e2\u021biva lei de mare l\u0103f\u0103indu-se pe mal. Un bonus nesperat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ghe\u021barul e \u00eentr-adev\u0103r impresionant. Peretele acela de ghea\u021b\u0103 e cople\u0219itor chiar \u0219i de la cei doi kilometri la care am stat prev\u0103z\u0103tori. Laguna era plin\u0103 de aisberguri, iar barca noastr\u0103 avea fundul blindat, a\u0219a c\u0103 nu am avut emo\u021bii prea mari c\u00e2nd se lovea de c\u00e2te unul.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ajun\u0219i la destina\u021bie, am fost pofti\u021bi s\u0103 ne \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103m cu vestele de salvare \u0219i s\u0103 urc\u0103m pe platforma b\u0103rcii, ca s\u0103 vedem mai bine. P\u00e2n\u0103 atunci st\u0103tusem \u00een burta ei, \u00eentr-un spa\u021biu \u00eenchis, f\u0103r\u0103 prea mult\u0103 perspectiv\u0103. Aici lucrurile s-au schimbat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gazdele noastre au pescuit buc\u0103\u021bi de ghea\u021b\u0103 din lagun\u0103 cu o plas\u0103, ca s\u0103 le putem vedea de aproape. Privit\u0103 astfel, ghea\u021ba nu era deloc uniform\u0103. Unele buc\u0103\u021bi erau albe \u0219i opace, altele aproape transparente, iar unele aveau un albastru intens, cum nu mai v\u0103zusem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Diferen\u021ba nu \u021bine de \u201eculoare\u201d \u00een sine, ci de aer \u0219i de vechime. Ghea\u021ba alb\u0103 e plin\u0103 de bule de aer \u0219i \u00eempr\u0103\u0219tie lumina. Cea transparent\u0103 are mai pu\u021bin aer prins \u00een ea. Iar ghea\u021ba albastr\u0103 e cea mai compact\u0103 \u0219i mai veche, presat\u0103 ani la r\u00e2nd p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd aerul a disp\u0103rut aproape complet. Atunci absoarbe lumina \u0219i las\u0103 s\u0103 se vad\u0103 doar albastrul.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Se auzea din c\u00e2nd \u00een c\u00e2nd cum crap\u0103 ghea\u021ba, iar din perete se desprindeau buc\u0103\u021bi care se pr\u0103bu\u0219eau \u00een ap\u0103. Nu erau blocuri foarte mari sau spectaculoase, dar nici nu \u00ee\u021bi venea s\u0103 te apropii prea mult de peretele acela.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Acolo sus, pe puntea vasului, ca premiu c\u0103 am ajuns at\u00e2t de departe, m-am cinstit pentru prima oar\u0103 \u00een via\u021ba mea cu un soi de afinat\u0103 local\u0103, numit\u0103 calafate, dup\u0103 fructul de p\u0103dure cu acela\u0219i nume. Prin urmare, \u00een Patagonia am renun\u021bat definitiv la pisco sour \u0219i am trecut pe calafate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Oric\u00e2t de impresionant ar fi fost, San Rafael nu mi s-a p\u0103rut deloc ospitalier. St\u0103teai \u00een fa\u021ba lui c\u00e2t \u021bi se permitea s\u0103 te apropii, f\u0103r\u0103 senza\u021bia c\u0103 ai ajuns \u00eentr-un loc care te include \u0219i pe tine. Ghe\u021barul exista separat de noi, \u00een ritmul lui, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 aib\u0103 vreo leg\u0103tur\u0103 cu prezen\u021ba noastr\u0103. Doar \u00eel priveai \u0219i at\u00e2t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am avut de mai multe ori senza\u021bia asta \u00een Chile. Natura aici te cople\u0219e\u0219te, nu te prime\u0219te \u00een s\u00e2nul ei. Parc\u0103 nu e f\u0103cut\u0103 s\u0103 fie str\u0103b\u0103tut\u0103 u\u0219or sau locuit\u0103 confortabil. La noi lucrurile sunt altfel. Natura e mai mic\u0103, mai domesticit\u0103, mai prins\u0103 \u00een via\u021ba de zi cu zi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pe drumul de \u00eentoarcere \u00een Puerto R\u00edo Tranquilo am avut prilejul s\u0103 admir\u0103m peisajul pe care \u00eel ratasem diminea\u021ba. Am v\u0103zut astfel alte buc\u0103\u021bi din acel imens C\u00e2mp de Ghea\u021b\u0103 Nord Patagonic, de data aceasta coco\u021bat la \u00een\u0103l\u021bime. Am mai v\u0103zut c\u00e2teva cascade, una dintre ele chiar la marginea drumului, \u0219i nesf\u00e2r\u0219itele p\u0103duri de foioase \u0219i conifere, care sem\u0103nau oarecum cu cele de acas\u0103 \u0219i nu prea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P\u0103durea aici e mult mai deas\u0103, dar \u0219i mai \u0219ubred\u0103 dec\u00e2t \u00een Carpa\u021bii no\u0219tri. Solul e mult mai sub\u021bire, a\u0219a c\u0103 bie\u021bii copaci nu prea au unde s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eenfig\u0103 r\u0103d\u0103cinile. Cresc c\u00e2t pot, iar apoi se usuc\u0103, l\u0103s\u00e2nd loc altora s\u0103 o ia de la cap\u0103t. E ciudat s\u0103 vezi o p\u0103dure verde pres\u0103rat\u0103 cu at\u00e2tea usc\u0103turi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cu stupoare am aflat de la Veronica c\u0103 proprietar peste o gr\u0103mad\u0103 din p\u0103durile astea era chiar so\u021bul gazdei noastre de origine german\u0103 de la pensiune. Se pare c\u0103 ecologia era o meteahna de familie, a\u0219a c\u0103 p\u0103durile din proprietatea lui erau c\u00e2t se poate de protejate. Oricum nu avea nevoie s\u0103 le exploateze el fiind de meserie arhitect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am exasperat-o pe Veronica rug\u00e2nd-o s\u0103 opreasc\u0103 la tot pasul ca s\u0103 mai fur\u0103m c\u00e2te un peisaj \u00eentr-o poz\u0103. Ea avea un program nem\u021besc de respectat \u0219i probabil voia s\u0103 ajung\u0103 repede acas\u0103, pentru c\u0103 a doua zi sigur o lua de la cap\u0103t. Noi am fi l\u0103l\u0103it-o p\u00e2n\u0103 se \u00eentuneca.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Am ajuns \u00een Puerto R\u00edo Tranquilo pe \u00eenserat, \u00eendeajuns de devreme pentru o cin\u0103 copioas\u0103, un somon pe care nu am reu\u0219it s\u0103-l biruiesc p\u00e2n\u0103 la cap\u0103t. Eram cam extenuat\u0103, de\u0219i nu f\u0103cusem cine \u0219tie ce munci grele \u00een acea zi, a\u0219a c\u0103 am pus capul pe pern\u0103 \u0219i am adormit bu\u0219tean. A doua zi urma s\u0103 v\u0103d dac\u0103 mai eram \u00een stare s\u0103 m\u0103 plimb cu caiacul pe lac.<\/p>\n\n\n

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A durat o ve\u0219nicie p\u00e2n\u0103 s\u0103 ajungem la ghe\u021barul San Rafael. Am pornit la drum dis de diminea\u021b\u0103, mult \u00eenainte de r\u0103s\u0103rit, dup\u0103 un mic dejun m\u00e2ncat \u00een fug\u0103 \u0219i preg\u0103tit pe jum\u0103tate din seara anterioar\u0103. De data aceasta ghid ne-a fost o t\u00e2n\u0103r\u0103 care p\u0103rea foarte sportiv\u0103, pe care o chema, dac\u0103 memoria nu m\u0103 \u00een\u0219eal\u0103, Veronica. Ne-a preluat din centrul satului Puerto R\u00edo Tranquilo, ne-a \u00eembarcat \u00eentr-un microbuz \u0219i ne-a purtat timp de vreo dou\u0103 ceasuri pe Carretera Austral, pe un drum de piatr\u0103 sf\u0103r\u00e2mat\u0103, printr-un peisaj a c\u0103rui frumuse\u021be nu aveam cum s\u0103 o apreciem \u00een acea noapte \u00eentunecat\u0103. Oricum, mai mult mo\u021b\u0103iam. C\u0103l\u0103toria noastr\u0103 pe patru ro\u021bi s-a terminat undeva pe malul lui R\u00edo Exploradores \u0219i a continuat pe r\u00e2u \u00een jos p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een Bah\u00eda Exploradores, adic\u0103 golful \u00een care r\u00e2ul se pierde \u00een mare. V\u0103z\u00e2nd c\u0103 ne-am trezit de-a binelea din cauza frigului de la transbordare, Veronica ne-a \u00eenm\u00e2nat o foaie plastifiat\u0103 \u0219i a \u00eenceput s\u0103 ne explice cum st\u0103 treaba cu ghe\u021barul, scopul c\u0103l\u0103toriei noastre din acea zi. A\u0219adar, San Rafael este una dintre limbile ce coboar\u0103 din C\u00e2mpul de Ghea\u021b\u0103 Nord Patagonic, o \u00eentindere uria\u0219\u0103 de ghea\u021b\u0103 care alimenteaz\u0103 mai multe limbi glaciare. Una dintre ele ajunge p\u00e2n\u0103 la nivelul m\u0103rii \u0219i se opre\u0219te \u00een Laguna San Rafael. Laguna nu e \u00eens\u0103 un lac izolat, cum ai fi tentat s\u0103 crezi, ci cap\u0103tul unui fiord legat direct de Oceanul Pacific. Cu alte cuvinte, ghe\u021barul nu cade \u00eentr-o ap\u0103 dulce, ci \u00eentr-una s\u0103rat\u0103, care vine \u0219i pleac\u0103 odat\u0103 cu mareele. De fapt, laguna este chiar urma ghe\u021barului. Pe vremuri, limba lui cobora mai departe, ocup\u00e2nd spa\u021biul \u00een care ast\u0103zi e ap\u0103. Retragerea lui a l\u0103sat \u00een urm\u0103 aceast\u0103 deschidere care s-a umplut treptat cu ap\u0103 de mare. De aici \u0219i particularitatea locului. Ghea\u021ba se rupe \u0219i cade \u00een ap\u0103, iar buc\u0103\u021bile plutesc mai departe prin sistemul de canale p\u00e2n\u0103 ies \u00een larg. Laguna e doar o etap\u0103, nu un cap\u0103t de drum. Drumul nostru a urmat exact traseul apei. Dup\u0103 ce am ajuns \u00een Bah\u00eda Exploradores, am ie\u0219it \u00een fiord \u0219i am \u00eenceput s\u0103 urc\u0103m \u00eencet spre interior. Am str\u0103b\u0103tut mai \u00eent\u00e2i Golful Elefantes, larg \u0219i deschis, \u0219i abia dup\u0103 aceea am intrat \u00een lagun\u0103 printr-un canal \u00eengust. Prin urmare, nu era vorba de o destina\u021bie aflat\u0103 imediat dup\u0103 col\u021b. P\u00e2n\u0103 la ghe\u021bar mai aveam de mers, \u0219i \u00eenc\u0103 destul. Retragerea ghe\u021barului s-a accentuat mult \u00een ultimii ani, iar lucrul acesta l-am sim\u021bit \u0219i pe pielea noastr\u0103. Anul trecut, la \u00eenscrierea \u00een excursie, Cristina ne propusese dou\u0103 variante prin care am fi putut cunoa\u0219te ghe\u021barul. Prima era plimbarea cu barca, pe care o f\u0103ceam acum, iar a doua un trekking pe ghea\u021b\u0103. \u00centre timp \u00eens\u0103, autorit\u0103\u021bile chiliene au interzis accesul pe ghe\u021bar din motive de siguran\u021b\u0103. Ghea\u021ba a devenit mai instabil\u0103, cu fisuri \u0219i pr\u0103bu\u0219iri greu de anticipat, pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce topirea s-a accelerat. Nu mi-a p\u0103rut prea r\u0103u, eu oricum optasem pentru barc\u0103. De c\u00e2nd am fost \u00een Bhutan, unde e interzis prin lege s\u0103 urci pe unele v\u00e2rfuri, m-am molipsit de la ei \u0219i mi-a r\u0103mas ideea asta \u00een cap. De fapt o aveam \u0219i \u00eenainte, dar acolo mi s-a confirmat. Nu simt nevoia s\u0103 merg peste tot unde se poate merge. M\u0103 mul\u021bumesc s\u0103 privesc unele lucruri de la distan\u021ba cuvenit\u0103. Ziua a fost \u00een general mohor\u00e2t\u0103, dar am prins pe drum \u0219i pu\u021bin soare, dar \u0219i pu\u021bin\u0103 ploaie. Nu \u0219tiu dac\u0103 a fost sau nu \u00een avantajul nostru faptul c\u0103 nu am prins soare puternic c\u00e2nd am ajuns \u00een fa\u021ba peretelui de ghea\u021b\u0103. Veronica spunea c\u0103 e mai bine a\u0219a, c\u0103 lumina f\u0103r\u0103 soare las\u0103 s\u0103 se vad\u0103 mai bine nuan\u021bele ghe\u021barului. Posibil s\u0103 fi avut dreptate. Cu pu\u021bin \u00eenainte s\u0103 ajungem, am z\u0103rit c\u00e2\u021biva lei de mare l\u0103f\u0103indu-se pe mal. Un bonus nesperat. Ghe\u021barul e \u00eentr-adev\u0103r impresionant. Peretele acela de ghea\u021b\u0103 e cople\u0219itor chiar \u0219i de la cei doi kilometri la care am stat prev\u0103z\u0103tori. Laguna era plin\u0103 de aisberguri, iar barca noastr\u0103 avea fundul blindat, a\u0219a c\u0103 nu am avut emo\u021bii prea mari c\u00e2nd se lovea de c\u00e2te unul. Ajun\u0219i la destina\u021bie, am fost pofti\u021bi s\u0103 ne \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103m cu vestele de salvare \u0219i s\u0103 urc\u0103m pe platforma b\u0103rcii, ca s\u0103 vedem mai bine. P\u00e2n\u0103 atunci st\u0103tusem \u00een burta ei, \u00eentr-un spa\u021biu \u00eenchis, f\u0103r\u0103 prea mult\u0103 perspectiv\u0103. Aici lucrurile s-au schimbat. Gazdele noastre au pescuit buc\u0103\u021bi de ghea\u021b\u0103 din lagun\u0103 cu o plas\u0103, ca s\u0103 le putem vedea de aproape. Privit\u0103 astfel, ghea\u021ba nu era deloc uniform\u0103. Unele buc\u0103\u021bi erau albe \u0219i opace, altele aproape transparente, iar unele aveau un albastru intens, cum nu mai v\u0103zusem. Diferen\u021ba nu \u021bine de \u201eculoare\u201d \u00een sine, ci de aer \u0219i de vechime. Ghea\u021ba alb\u0103 e plin\u0103 de bule de aer \u0219i \u00eempr\u0103\u0219tie lumina. Cea transparent\u0103 are mai pu\u021bin aer prins \u00een ea. Iar ghea\u021ba albastr\u0103 e cea mai compact\u0103 \u0219i mai veche, presat\u0103 ani la r\u00e2nd p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd aerul a disp\u0103rut aproape complet. Atunci absoarbe lumina \u0219i las\u0103 s\u0103 se vad\u0103 doar albastrul. Se auzea din c\u00e2nd \u00een c\u00e2nd cum crap\u0103 ghea\u021ba, iar din perete se desprindeau buc\u0103\u021bi care se pr\u0103bu\u0219eau \u00een ap\u0103. Nu erau blocuri foarte mari sau spectaculoase, dar nici nu \u00ee\u021bi venea s\u0103 te apropii prea mult de peretele acela. Acolo sus, pe puntea vasului, ca premiu c\u0103 am ajuns at\u00e2t de departe, m-am cinstit pentru prima oar\u0103 \u00een via\u021ba mea cu un soi de afinat\u0103 local\u0103, numit\u0103 calafate, dup\u0103 fructul de p\u0103dure cu acela\u0219i nume. Prin urmare, \u00een Patagonia am renun\u021bat definitiv la pisco sour \u0219i am trecut pe calafate. Oric\u00e2t de impresionant ar fi fost, San Rafael nu mi s-a p\u0103rut deloc ospitalier. St\u0103teai \u00een fa\u021ba lui c\u00e2t \u021bi se permitea s\u0103 te apropii, f\u0103r\u0103 senza\u021bia c\u0103 ai ajuns \u00eentr-un loc care te include \u0219i pe tine. Ghe\u021barul exista separat de noi, \u00een ritmul lui, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 aib\u0103 vreo leg\u0103tur\u0103 cu prezen\u021ba noastr\u0103. Doar \u00eel priveai \u0219i at\u00e2t. Am avut de mai multe ori senza\u021bia asta \u00een Chile. Natura aici te cople\u0219e\u0219te, nu te prime\u0219te \u00een s\u00e2nul ei. Parc\u0103 nu e f\u0103cut\u0103 s\u0103 fie str\u0103b\u0103tut\u0103 u\u0219or sau locuit\u0103 confortabil. La noi lucrurile sunt altfel. Natura e mai mic\u0103, mai domesticit\u0103, mai prins\u0103 \u00een via\u021ba de zi cu zi. Pe drumul de \u00eentoarcere \u00een Puerto R\u00edo Tranquilo am avut prilejul s\u0103 admir\u0103m peisajul pe care \u00eel ratasem diminea\u021ba. Am v\u0103zut astfel alte buc\u0103\u021bi din acel imens C\u00e2mp de Ghea\u021b\u0103 Nord Patagonic, de data aceasta coco\u021bat la \u00een\u0103l\u021bime. Am mai v\u0103zut c\u00e2teva cascade, una dintre ele chiar la marginea drumului, \u0219i nesf\u00e2r\u0219itele p\u0103duri de foioase \u0219i conifere, care sem\u0103nau oarecum cu cele de acas\u0103 \u0219i nu prea. P\u0103durea aici e mult mai deas\u0103, dar \u0219i mai \u0219ubred\u0103 dec\u00e2t \u00een Carpa\u021bii no\u0219tri. Solul e mult mai sub\u021bire, a\u0219a c\u0103 bie\u021bii copaci nu prea au unde s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eenfig\u0103 r\u0103d\u0103cinile. Cresc c\u00e2t pot, iar apoi se usuc\u0103, l\u0103s\u00e2nd loc altora s\u0103 o ia de la cap\u0103t. E ciudat s\u0103 vezi o p\u0103dure verde pres\u0103rat\u0103 cu at\u00e2tea usc\u0103turi. Cu stupoare am aflat de la Veronica c\u0103 proprietar peste o gr\u0103mad\u0103 din p\u0103durile astea era chiar so\u021bul gazdei noastre de origine german\u0103 de la pensiune. Se pare c\u0103 ecologia era o meteahna de familie, a\u0219a c\u0103 p\u0103durile din proprietatea lui erau c\u00e2t se poate de protejate. Oricum nu avea nevoie s\u0103 le exploateze el fiind de meserie arhitect. Am exasperat-o pe Veronica rug\u00e2nd-o s\u0103 opreasc\u0103 la tot pasul ca s\u0103 mai fur\u0103m c\u00e2te un peisaj \u00eentr-o poz\u0103. Ea avea un program nem\u021besc de respectat \u0219i probabil voia s\u0103 ajung\u0103 repede acas\u0103, pentru c\u0103 a doua zi sigur o lua de la cap\u0103t. Noi am fi l\u0103l\u0103it-o p\u00e2n\u0103 se \u00eentuneca. Am ajuns \u00een Puerto R\u00edo Tranquilo pe \u00eenserat, \u00eendeajuns de devreme pentru o cin\u0103 copioas\u0103, un somon pe care nu am reu\u0219it s\u0103-l biruiesc p\u00e2n\u0103 la cap\u0103t. Eram cam extenuat\u0103, de\u0219i nu f\u0103cusem cine \u0219tie ce munci grele \u00een acea zi, a\u0219a c\u0103 am pus capul pe pern\u0103 \u0219i am adormit bu\u0219tean. A doua zi urma s\u0103 v\u0103d dac\u0103 mai eram \u00een stare s\u0103 m\u0103 plimb cu caiacul pe lac. +7 0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":53209,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1012,954,688],"tags":[1039],"class_list":["post-52820","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile","category-america","category-calatorii","tag-palmares-natura-ghetari"],"yoast_head":"\nLaguna San Rafael \u0219i ghe\u021barul - 🇨🇱 Chile - Uli\u021barnica<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Un drum p\u00e2n\u0103 la ghe\u021barul San Rafael, o lagun\u0103 plin\u0103 de aisberguri \u0219i o \u00eent\u00e2lnire cu o natur\u0103 nefamiliar\u0103 \u0219i cople\u0219itoare.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/laguna-san-rafael-si-ghetarul\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Laguna San Rafael \u0219i ghe\u021barul - 🇨🇱 Chile - Uli\u021barnica\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Un drum p\u00e2n\u0103 la ghe\u021barul San Rafael, o lagun\u0103 plin\u0103 de aisberguri \u0219i o \u00eent\u00e2lnire cu o natur\u0103 nefamiliar\u0103 \u0219i cople\u0219itoare.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/laguna-san-rafael-si-ghetarul\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Uli\u021barnica\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/Ulitarnica\/494942813906889\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/Ulitarnica\/494942813906889\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2026-04-01T07:18:11+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2026-07-09T11:21:01+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/2026-03-13-coperta-2555.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"600\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"450\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"AncaHM\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@MihaelaHerbei\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@MihaelaHerbei\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Scris de\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"AncaHM\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Timp estimat pentru citire\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"16 minute\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.ulitarnica.ro\\\/wp\\\/laguna-san-rafael-si-ghetarul\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.ulitarnica.ro\\\/wp\\\/laguna-san-rafael-si-ghetarul\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"AncaHM\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.ulitarnica.ro\\\/wp\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/1de2fe90232dbef1295aeac37800a007\"},\"headline\":\"Laguna San Rafael \u0219i ghe\u021barul Jurnal chilian - 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