{"id":52812,"date":"2026-03-31T14:48:41","date_gmt":"2026-03-31T12:48:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/?p=52812"},"modified":"2026-07-09T13:23:02","modified_gmt":"2026-07-09T11:23:02","slug":"atacama-un-camp-de-gheizere-la-altitudine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/atacama-un-camp-de-gheizere-la-altitudine\/","title":{"rendered":"Atacama, un c\u00e2mp de gheizere la altitudine <\/br> Jurnal chilian - capitolul 7<\/span>"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ultima zi petrecut\u0103 \u00een Atacama am \u00eenceput-o iar cu noaptea \u00een cap, pe la patru diminea\u021ba. M\u0103sura aceasta draconic\u0103 a fost luat\u0103 pentru c\u0103 singurul obiectiv al zilei erau gheizerele de la El Taito \u0219i dac\u0103 nu ajungi acolo pe la r\u0103s\u0103rit ri\u0219ti s\u0103 ratezi experien\u021ba.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A\u0219adar nu dintr-un capriciul al Cristinei sau al lui Nicolas ne-am trezit at\u00e2t de devreme, ci din pricina unei simple chestiuni de fizic\u0103. Gheizerele de la El Tatio nu \u021bin cont de programul turi\u0219tilor, ele bolborosesc oricum, dar numai frigul dimine\u021bii le face perfect vizibile. La peste 4.300 de metri altitudine, apa \u00eenc\u0103lzit\u0103 \u00een ad\u00e2nc de roci fierbin\u021bi iese la suprafa\u021b\u0103 sub form\u0103 de abur \u0219i jeturi scurte, dar dac\u0103 ajungi prea t\u00e2rziu nu mai vezi mare lucru. Pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce aerul se \u00eenc\u0103lze\u0219te, aburul se risipe\u0219te \u0219i tot spectacolul se transform\u0103 \u00eentr-un c\u00e2mp de b\u0103l\u021bi fumeg\u00e2nde, destul de cumin\u021bi \u0219i deloc impresionante. A\u0219a c\u0103 ne-am dus pe \u00eentuneric, \u00eenghe\u021ba\u021bi \u0219i cam moroc\u0103no\u0219i, doar ca s\u0103 prindem momentul \u00een care p\u0103m\u00e2ntul mai are \u00eenc\u0103 suficient frig \u00een el \u00eenc\u00e2t s\u0103-\u0219i arate respira\u021bia. Dup\u0103 r\u0103s\u0103rit, gheizerele r\u0103m\u00e2n acolo, dar farmecul lor se tope\u0219te odat\u0103 cu noaptea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El Tatio se afl\u0103 foarte aproape de grani\u021ba cu Bolivia, iar prezen\u021ba statului se simte mai mult dec\u00e2t te-ai a\u0219tepta \u00eentr-un loc at\u00e2t de pustiu. Zona e supravegheat\u0103 destul de atent, nu at\u00e2t pentru turi\u0219ti ca noi, c\u00e2t pentru mica dar insistenta contraband\u0103 care se face pe aici, peste mun\u021bi. Solul era br\u0103zdat de urme de ro\u021bi \u00een toate direc\u021biile, multe second\u00e2nd lini\u0219tit drumul oficial. Acolo unde nu vezi garduri \u0219i nici borne clare, fiecare \u00ee\u0219i traseaz\u0103 propriul drum. Care dintre ele or fi fost legale \u0219i care nu, greu de spus. Urmele nu spun pove\u0219ti doar te \u00eendeamn\u0103 s\u0103 le inventezi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am sim\u021bit \u0219i noi vigilen\u021ba oficialit\u0103\u021bilor pe pielea noastr\u0103. La \u00eentoarcere am fost opri\u021bi de o patrul\u0103 \u0219i amenda\u021bi, nu pentru vreo fapt\u0103 spectaculoas\u0103, ci pentru c\u0103 am deranjat ni\u0219te p\u0103s\u0103ri \u00eentr-un sm\u00e2rc \u201eprotejat\u201d. Recunosc, mai mult dec\u00e2t lec\u021bie de ecologie, momentul a sem\u0103nat mai degrab\u0103 cu o tax\u0103 aplicat\u0103 la fa\u021ba locului, \u00eentr-un decor unde nu te-ai fi a\u0219teptat s\u0103 te ajung\u0103 birocra\u021bia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am ajuns la El Tatio pu\u021bin mai devreme de ora optim\u0103, dar a fost foarte bine a\u0219a, pentru c\u0103 am prins soarele juc\u00e2ndu-se cu aburii taman \u00een mijlocul c\u00e2mpului de gheizere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Locul e \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bit, \u00een linii mari, \u00een dou\u0103 zone de vizitare. Prima e mai r\u0103sfirat\u0103, cu ochiuri de ap\u0103 fierbinte \u0219i aburi care ies lini\u0219tit din p\u0103m\u00e2nt, ca ni\u0219te respira\u021bii rare. A doua e mai concentrat\u0103 \u0219i mai spectaculoas\u0103, cu gheizere care izbucnesc mai hot\u0103r\u00e2t, de\u0219i nici aici nu te a\u0219teapt\u0103 coloane uria\u0219e ca cea din Islanda, de exemplu. El Tatio e mai degrab\u0103 un loc al detaliilor dec\u00e2t al exager\u0103rilor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Numele locului provine, cel mai probabil, din limba quechua \u0219i ar \u00eensemna \u201eb\u0103tr\u00e2nul care pl\u00e2nge\u201d sau \u201ecel care pl\u00e2nge\u201d, o imagine destul de potrivit\u0103 pentru un p\u0103m\u00e2nt care scoate aburi \u0219i ap\u0103 fierbinte din el f\u0103r\u0103 oprire. Nu \u0219tiu sigur dac\u0103 asta e singura interpretare, dar e cea mai des invocat\u0103. Nicolas amintea \u0219i de conturul unui munte dar nu m-a convins deloc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

C\u00e2t despre gheizere, nu sunt toate la fel. Unele sunt adev\u0103rate gheizere, care erup periodic, \u00een jeturi scurte. Altele sunt mai degrab\u0103 fumarole, adic\u0103 doar scot abur continuu, f\u0103r\u0103 explozie. \u0218i mai sunt \u0219i bazinele cu ap\u0103 clocotit\u0103, care fierb lini\u0219tit la suprafa\u021b\u0103. Toate vin din acela\u0219i mecanism, dar fiecare \u00ee\u0219i arat\u0103 \u201etemperamentul\u201d \u00een felul lui. Unele au apucat chiar s\u0103-\u0219i construiasc\u0103 \u00een timp un mic co\u0219 de piatr\u0103 prin care \u00ee\u0219i arunc\u0103 apa, altele r\u0103m\u00e2n simple guri deschise \u00een p\u0103m\u00e2nt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Traseul este strict reglementat, iar c\u0103r\u0103rile pentru turi\u0219ti sunt marcate clar cu bolovani, ca s\u0103 nu-\u021bi vin\u0103 idei s\u0103 o iei pe scurt\u0103tur\u0103. \u00cen fa\u021ba unor gheizere mai \u201esup\u0103rate\u201d au fost amenajate mici miradoare de piatr\u0103, care \u00ee\u021bi permit s\u0103 te apropii f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 te p\u00e2rlesti \u0219i, mai ales, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 distrugi solul fragil de sub picioare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nicolas ne-a povestit \u0219i despre cazuri \u00een care turi\u0219ti au c\u0103zut \u00een c\u00e2te o balt\u0103 \u0219i au devenit, la propriu, sup\u0103, \u00een fond temperatura apei poate ajunge \u0219i p\u00e2n\u0103 la 85 grade Celsius. \u0218i nu, nu erau neap\u0103rat prostanaci. \u00cen zilele reci, aburul e at\u00e2t de dens \u00eenc\u00e2t nu vezi nici la un pas \u00een fa\u021b\u0103 \u0219i \u00ee\u021bi dai seama prea t\u00e2rziu unde ai c\u0103lcat. A\u0219a c\u0103, acolo unde primejdia e mai mare, au fost puse borduri mai \u00eenalte la marginea c\u0103r\u0103rii, ca s\u0103 nu te apropii mai mult dec\u00e2t trebuie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am v\u0103zut \u0219i ceva viet\u0103\u021bi pe acolo. C\u00e2teva vicu\u00f1a, un roz\u0103tor local care seam\u0103n\u0103 cu un iepure, probabil o viscacha, \u0219i un p\u0103s\u0103rel despre care Nicolas ne spunea c\u0103 era folosit pe vremuri \u00een mine, precum erau folosi\u021bi canarii \u00een Europa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ne-am \u00eenv\u00e2rtit printre gheizere p\u00e2n\u0103 au \u00eenceput s\u0103 ne ghior\u021b\u0103ie ma\u021bele de foame, doar plecaser\u0103m la drum \u00eenainte de ora micului dejun. A\u0219a c\u0103 excursia noastr\u0103 la El Tatio s-a \u00eencheiat cu un picnic \u00eentr-o parcare coco\u021bat\u0103 deasupra c\u00e2mpului de gheizere. Am avut de dat gata at\u00e2t micul dejun primit la pachet de la hotel, c\u00e2t \u0219i ce ne preg\u0103tise Nicolas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mi-a pl\u0103cut cum s-a \u00eencheiat periplul nostru prin Atacama. Gheizerele astea au ajuns pe locul doi \u00een lista preferin\u021belor mele, dup\u0103 pietrele ro\u0219ii din salarul Aguas Calientes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Din El Tatio ne-am dus direct spre aeroport, e drept, cu pauze lungi \u0219i dese. Dup\u0103-amiaza urma s\u0103 ne lu\u0103m zborul spre Santiago, iar de acolo, dup\u0103 o noapte nedrept de scurt\u0103, spre nordul Patagoniei, o alt\u0103 poveste chilian\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Ultima zi petrecut\u0103 \u00een Atacama am \u00eenceput-o iar cu noaptea \u00een cap, pe la patru diminea\u021ba. M\u0103sura aceasta draconic\u0103 a fost luat\u0103 pentru c\u0103 singurul obiectiv al zilei erau gheizerele de la El Taito \u0219i dac\u0103 nu ajungi acolo pe la r\u0103s\u0103rit ri\u0219ti s\u0103 ratezi experien\u021ba. A\u0219adar nu dintr-un capriciul al Cristinei sau al lui Nicolas ne-am trezit at\u00e2t de devreme, ci din pricina unei simple chestiuni de fizic\u0103. Gheizerele de la El Tatio nu \u021bin cont de programul turi\u0219tilor, ele bolborosesc oricum, dar numai frigul dimine\u021bii le face perfect vizibile. La peste 4.300 de metri altitudine, apa \u00eenc\u0103lzit\u0103 \u00een ad\u00e2nc de roci fierbin\u021bi iese la suprafa\u021b\u0103 sub form\u0103 de abur \u0219i jeturi scurte, dar dac\u0103 ajungi prea t\u00e2rziu nu mai vezi mare lucru. Pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce aerul se \u00eenc\u0103lze\u0219te, aburul se risipe\u0219te \u0219i tot spectacolul se transform\u0103 \u00eentr-un c\u00e2mp de b\u0103l\u021bi fumeg\u00e2nde, destul de cumin\u021bi \u0219i deloc impresionante. A\u0219a c\u0103 ne-am dus pe \u00eentuneric, \u00eenghe\u021ba\u021bi \u0219i cam moroc\u0103no\u0219i, doar ca s\u0103 prindem momentul \u00een care p\u0103m\u00e2ntul mai are \u00eenc\u0103 suficient frig \u00een el \u00eenc\u00e2t s\u0103-\u0219i arate respira\u021bia. Dup\u0103 r\u0103s\u0103rit, gheizerele r\u0103m\u00e2n acolo, dar farmecul lor se tope\u0219te odat\u0103 cu noaptea. El Tatio se afl\u0103 foarte aproape de grani\u021ba cu Bolivia, iar prezen\u021ba statului se simte mai mult dec\u00e2t te-ai a\u0219tepta \u00eentr-un loc at\u00e2t de pustiu. Zona e supravegheat\u0103 destul de atent, nu at\u00e2t pentru turi\u0219ti ca noi, c\u00e2t pentru mica dar insistenta contraband\u0103 care se face pe aici, peste mun\u021bi. Solul era br\u0103zdat de urme de ro\u021bi \u00een toate direc\u021biile, multe second\u00e2nd lini\u0219tit drumul oficial. Acolo unde nu vezi garduri \u0219i nici borne clare, fiecare \u00ee\u0219i traseaz\u0103 propriul drum. Care dintre ele or fi fost legale \u0219i care nu, greu de spus. Urmele nu spun pove\u0219ti doar te \u00eendeamn\u0103 s\u0103 le inventezi. Am sim\u021bit \u0219i noi vigilen\u021ba oficialit\u0103\u021bilor pe pielea noastr\u0103. La \u00eentoarcere am fost opri\u021bi de o patrul\u0103 \u0219i amenda\u021bi, nu pentru vreo fapt\u0103 spectaculoas\u0103, ci pentru c\u0103 am deranjat ni\u0219te p\u0103s\u0103ri \u00eentr-un sm\u00e2rc \u201eprotejat\u201d. Recunosc, mai mult dec\u00e2t lec\u021bie de ecologie, momentul a sem\u0103nat mai degrab\u0103 cu o tax\u0103 aplicat\u0103 la fa\u021ba locului, \u00eentr-un decor unde nu te-ai fi a\u0219teptat s\u0103 te ajung\u0103 birocra\u021bia. Am ajuns la El Tatio pu\u021bin mai devreme de ora optim\u0103, dar a fost foarte bine a\u0219a, pentru c\u0103 am prins soarele juc\u00e2ndu-se cu aburii taman \u00een mijlocul c\u00e2mpului de gheizere. Locul e \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bit, \u00een linii mari, \u00een dou\u0103 zone de vizitare. Prima e mai r\u0103sfirat\u0103, cu ochiuri de ap\u0103 fierbinte \u0219i aburi care ies lini\u0219tit din p\u0103m\u00e2nt, ca ni\u0219te respira\u021bii rare. A doua e mai concentrat\u0103 \u0219i mai spectaculoas\u0103, cu gheizere care izbucnesc mai hot\u0103r\u00e2t, de\u0219i nici aici nu te a\u0219teapt\u0103 coloane uria\u0219e ca cea din Islanda, de exemplu. El Tatio e mai degrab\u0103 un loc al detaliilor dec\u00e2t al exager\u0103rilor. Numele locului provine, cel mai probabil, din limba quechua \u0219i ar \u00eensemna \u201eb\u0103tr\u00e2nul care pl\u00e2nge\u201d sau \u201ecel care pl\u00e2nge\u201d, o imagine destul de potrivit\u0103 pentru un p\u0103m\u00e2nt care scoate aburi \u0219i ap\u0103 fierbinte din el f\u0103r\u0103 oprire. Nu \u0219tiu sigur dac\u0103 asta e singura interpretare, dar e cea mai des invocat\u0103. Nicolas amintea \u0219i de conturul unui munte dar nu m-a convins deloc. C\u00e2t despre gheizere, nu sunt toate la fel. Unele sunt adev\u0103rate gheizere, care erup periodic, \u00een jeturi scurte. Altele sunt mai degrab\u0103 fumarole, adic\u0103 doar scot abur continuu, f\u0103r\u0103 explozie. \u0218i mai sunt \u0219i bazinele cu ap\u0103 clocotit\u0103, care fierb lini\u0219tit la suprafa\u021b\u0103. Toate vin din acela\u0219i mecanism, dar fiecare \u00ee\u0219i arat\u0103 \u201etemperamentul\u201d \u00een felul lui. Unele au apucat chiar s\u0103-\u0219i construiasc\u0103 \u00een timp un mic co\u0219 de piatr\u0103 prin care \u00ee\u0219i arunc\u0103 apa, altele r\u0103m\u00e2n simple guri deschise \u00een p\u0103m\u00e2nt. Traseul este strict reglementat, iar c\u0103r\u0103rile pentru turi\u0219ti sunt marcate clar cu bolovani, ca s\u0103 nu-\u021bi vin\u0103 idei s\u0103 o iei pe scurt\u0103tur\u0103. \u00cen fa\u021ba unor gheizere mai \u201esup\u0103rate\u201d au fost amenajate mici miradoare de piatr\u0103, care \u00ee\u021bi permit s\u0103 te apropii f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 te p\u00e2rlesti \u0219i, mai ales, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 distrugi solul fragil de sub picioare. Nicolas ne-a povestit \u0219i despre cazuri \u00een care turi\u0219ti au c\u0103zut \u00een c\u00e2te o balt\u0103 \u0219i au devenit, la propriu, sup\u0103, \u00een fond temperatura apei poate ajunge \u0219i p\u00e2n\u0103 la 85 grade Celsius. \u0218i nu, nu erau neap\u0103rat prostanaci. \u00cen zilele reci, aburul e at\u00e2t de dens \u00eenc\u00e2t nu vezi nici la un pas \u00een fa\u021b\u0103 \u0219i \u00ee\u021bi dai seama prea t\u00e2rziu unde ai c\u0103lcat. A\u0219a c\u0103, acolo unde primejdia e mai mare, au fost puse borduri mai \u00eenalte la marginea c\u0103r\u0103rii, ca s\u0103 nu te apropii mai mult dec\u00e2t trebuie. Am v\u0103zut \u0219i ceva viet\u0103\u021bi pe acolo. C\u00e2teva vicu\u00f1a, un roz\u0103tor local care seam\u0103n\u0103 cu un iepure, probabil o viscacha, \u0219i un p\u0103s\u0103rel despre care Nicolas ne spunea c\u0103 era folosit pe vremuri \u00een mine, precum erau folosi\u021bi canarii \u00een Europa. Ne-am \u00eenv\u00e2rtit printre gheizere p\u00e2n\u0103 au \u00eenceput s\u0103 ne ghior\u021b\u0103ie ma\u021bele de foame, doar plecaser\u0103m la drum \u00eenainte de ora micului dejun. A\u0219a c\u0103 excursia noastr\u0103 la El Tatio s-a \u00eencheiat cu un picnic \u00eentr-o parcare coco\u021bat\u0103 deasupra c\u00e2mpului de gheizere. Am avut de dat gata at\u00e2t micul dejun primit la pachet de la hotel, c\u00e2t \u0219i ce ne preg\u0103tise Nicolas. Mi-a pl\u0103cut cum s-a \u00eencheiat periplul nostru prin Atacama. Gheizerele astea au ajuns pe locul doi \u00een lista preferin\u021belor mele, dup\u0103 pietrele ro\u0219ii din salarul Aguas Calientes. Din El Tatio ne-am dus direct spre aeroport, e drept, cu pauze lungi \u0219i dese. Dup\u0103-amiaza urma s\u0103 ne lu\u0103m zborul spre Santiago, iar de acolo, dup\u0103 o noapte nedrept de scurt\u0103, spre nordul Patagoniei, o alt\u0103 poveste chilian\u0103. +4 0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":53126,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1012,954,688],"tags":[1045],"class_list":["post-52812","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile","category-america","category-calatorii","tag-palmares-natura-geizere"],"yoast_head":"\nAtacama, un c\u00e2mp de gheizere la altitudine - 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