{"id":47679,"date":"2025-04-10T11:00:04","date_gmt":"2025-04-10T09:00:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/?p=47679"},"modified":"2026-05-16T14:25:10","modified_gmt":"2026-05-16T12:25:10","slug":"prin-delta-mekongului","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/prin-delta-mekongului\/","title":{"rendered":"Prin Delta Mekongului <\/br> Jurnal din Indochina - capitolul 4<\/span>"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Mekong-ul, principalul fluviu al Indochinei, este mai ciud\u0103\u021bel de felul lui. Izvor\u0103\u0219te \u00een podi\u0219ul Tibetului \u0219i o ia la vale spre sud p\u00e2n\u0103 se vars\u0103 \u00een Marea Chinei de Sud printr-o delt\u0103 imens\u0103. \u00cen drumul s\u0103u trece prin majoritatea \u021b\u0103rilor din peninsul\u0103 Myanmar, Laos, Thailanda, Cambodgia \u0219i sudul Vietnamului. Spre deosebire de alte mari fluvii ale lumii, cum ar fi Yangtse, Mississippi, Amazon, Nil sau Gange, ce curg doar prin una sau dou\u0103 \u021b\u0103ri, Mekong-ul este mai degrab\u0103 un r\u00e2u al grani\u021belor. \u00cen afar\u0103 de notabila civiliza\u021bie a khmerilor cambodgieni nici o alt\u0103 mare civiliza\u021bie nu s-a coagulat pe malurile lui. De vin\u0103 pentru aceast\u0103 anomalie sunt varia\u021biile sezoniere extreme ale debitului s\u0103u, faptul c\u0103 trece deseori prin chei spectaculoase iar de-a lungul cursului lui sunt pres\u0103rate nenum\u0103rate praguri \u0219i cascade, f\u0103c\u00e2ndu-l aproape nenavigabil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Caracterul tumultuos al Mekong-ului nu poate fi \u00eens\u0103 observat \u00een Delt\u0103. \u00cencep\u00e2nd cu v\u00e2rful deltei, aflat \u00een preajma capitalei cambodgiene Phnom Penh \u0219i p\u00e2n\u0103 la  dispari\u021bia lui \u00een Marea Chinei de Sud, Mekong-ul este c\u00e2t se poate de binevoitor \u0219i pa\u0219nic, uit\u00e2ndu-\u0219i toate \u021b\u00e2fnele din amonte. Aici r\u00e2ul se sparge \u00een nenum\u0103rate canale \u0219i c\u0103n\u0103la\u0219e navigabile, potrivite pentru toate tipurile de ambarca\u021biuni fluviale. Pe malurile lor s-au culcu\u0219it nenum\u0103rate or\u0103\u0219ele \u0219i sate iar terenurile agricole pot sus\u021bine o popula\u021bie vast\u0103. Delta Mekong este de departe cea mai productiv\u0103 regiune a Vietnamului \u00een agricultur\u0103 \u0219i acvacultur\u0103. C\u00e2t vezi cu ochii dai de lanuri \u0219i lanuri de orez.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00centr-una din zile am fost \u0219i noi \u00eentr-o excursie la \u021bar\u0103, \u00een Delta Mekong-ului. Am plecat din Saigon cu autocarul, diminea\u021ba, dup\u0103 micul dejun \u0219i dup\u0103 un ceas \u0219i ceva am ajuns \u00eentr-un or\u0103\u0219el pe nume Cai Be aflat jum\u0103tate pe ap\u0103, jum\u0103tate pe uscat. Acolo ne-am \u00eembarcat pe un vapora\u0219 turistic viu colorat \u0219i am pornit pe r\u00e2u \u00een jos, p\u00e2n\u0103 pe o insuli\u021b\u0103 numit\u0103 T\u00e2n Phong.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cam a\u0219a ar\u0103tam \u0219i noi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Pe insuli\u021b\u0103 am fost urca\u021bi \u00een ni\u0219te ambarca\u021biuni mai mititele numite sampan<\/em>, m\u00e2nuite de c\u00e2te o doamn\u0103 v\u00e2sl\u0103\u0219i\u021b\u0103, cu ajutorul c\u0103rora am traversat insuli\u021ba pe canale \u00eenguste, plutind pe sub bol\u021bile verzi ale copacilor printre casele oamenilor ce deseori st\u0103teau coco\u021bate pe piloni \u00eenfip\u021bi \u00een ap\u0103, ca ni\u0219te cocost\u00e2rci. Am \u00eenc\u0103put c\u00e2te patru \u00eentr-un sampan, o barc\u0103 din lemn cu fund relativ plat, unul \u00een spatele celuilalt. Plutonul \u00eel \u00eenchidea gazda ce st\u0103tea \u00een picioare m\u00e2nuind v\u00e2sle extrem de lungi. Nu de pu\u021bine ori ne-am \u00eempotmolit \u00een covoarele de zambile de apa ce p\u0103reau c\u0103 vor s\u0103 blocheze canalele.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dup\u0103 ce-am \u00eencheiat experien\u021ba cu sampanul am fost pofti\u021bi \u00eentr-o gospod\u0103rie pentru o sesiune de degustare a frunctelor din propria livad\u0103 \u0219i pentru a vedea un mic spectacol de don-ca-tai-tu<\/em> sus\u021binut de gazde \u0219i probabil de vreo doi vecini de-ai lor. Timp de aproximativ jum\u0103tate de ceas am fost pu\u0219i la curent cu via\u021ba de zi cu zi a locuitorilor deltei, cu tehnicile de pescuit \u0219i de prindere a racilor, cu b\u00e2rfele, flirturile \u0219i scandalurile din sat. Povestea interpretat\u0103 pe scen\u0103 a fost acompaniat\u0103 de c\u00e2teva instrumente muzicale, unele ciud\u0103\u021bele altele recognoscibile. Dup\u0103 unele p\u0103reri  termenul tai-tu<\/em> \u00eenseamn\u0103 amator dar \u00een realitate \u00eenseamn\u0103 talentat. C\u00e2nt\u0103re\u021bii de pe scen\u0103 nu-\u0219i c\u00e2\u0219tigau existen\u021ba practic\u00eend muzica, ci o f\u0103ceau mai degrab\u0103 din pasiune.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen aceast\u0103 gospod\u0103rie mi s-a deslu\u0219it \u00een sf\u00e2r\u0219it misterul miilor de cop\u0103cei exploda\u021bi, cu flori galbene, pe care i-am tot v\u0103zut \u00een Saigon \u0219i prin \u00eemtrejurimi. Gr\u0103dina din jurul casei era plin\u0103 de ei. Cop\u0103ceii respectivi sunt de fapt cai\u0219i cu flori galbene \u0219i sunt simbolul s\u0103rb\u0103torii Tet, a anului nou lunar, \u00een sudul Vietnamului. Ghidul nostru ne spunea c\u0103 Tet ar fi incomplet f\u0103r\u0103 florile galbene de cais. Spre deosebire de alte flori folosite \u00een timpul acestei s\u0103rb\u0103tori, care ar trebui s\u0103 fie complet deschise \u00eenc\u0103 de la \u00eenceputul s\u0103rb\u0103torii, cai\u0219ii sunt a\u0219tepta\u021bi s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eenceap\u0103 \u00eenflorirea abia \u00een primele zile ale Tet pentru a marca un debut prosper al noului an. Exist\u0103 \u0219i obiceiul de-a rupe frunzele cop\u0103ceilor de cais cu aproximativ dou\u0103 s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2ni \u00eenainte de Tet pentru a asigura o \u00eenflorire mai abundent\u0103 \u0219i \u00een acest fel un an nou c\u00e2t mai prosper.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dup\u0103 \u00eencheierea vizitei \u00een gospod\u0103rie ne-am \u00eembarcat iar \u00een vapora\u0219ul ini\u021bial \u0219i-am mers \u00een Cai Be pentru alte activit\u0103\u021bi turistico-comerciale. Am vizitat un atelier local unde ne-am pus la curent cu procesul fabric\u0103rii h\u00e2rtiei de orez, al bomboanelor din nuc\u0103 de cocos, al floricelelor din orez \u0219i al unui rachiu de orez, acompaniate (aproape) toate de sesiuni de degustare. Din p\u0103cate pia\u021ba plutitoare din Cai Be nu era deschis\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pe la pr\u00e2nz am fost invita\u021bi la mas\u0103 \u00eentr-un restaurant simandicos ce-avea pere\u021bii de lemn \u00eempodobi\u021bi cu intarsii din sidef. P\u0103rea a fi o re\u0219edin\u021b\u0103 boiereasc\u0103 provenit\u0103 din alte vremuri. Pr\u00e2nzul pus pe mas\u0103 a fost \u0219i el delicios.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cu bur\u021bile pline \u0219i cu nervii calma\u021bi de serenitatea vie\u021bii de la \u021bar\u0103 ne-am \u00eendreptat apoi spre autocarul ce-avea s\u0103 ne duc\u0103 \u00eenapoi \u00een vacarmul Saigonului.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cam a\u0219a se face h\u00e2rtia de orez<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Frumoasa biseric\u0103 din Cai Be am v\u0103zut-o doar pe dinafar\u0103.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Iar aici avem acadele din nuc\u0103 de cocos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Cum se decanteaz\u0103 rachiul<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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La restaurant<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Din buc\u0103t\u0103ria vietnamez\u0103. Pe\u0219tele ureche-de-elefant, o bun\u0103tate. \u0218i pache\u021bele de prim\u0103var\u0103.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Cam a\u0219a arat\u0103 o buc\u0103\u021bic\u0103 din Delta Mekong-ului din avion<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>
0<\/span><\/a><\/div> <\/div>
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<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mekong-ul, principalul fluviu al Indochinei, este mai ciud\u0103\u021bel de felul lui. Izvor\u0103\u0219te \u00een podi\u0219ul Tibetului \u0219i o ia la vale spre sud p\u00e2n\u0103 se vars\u0103 \u00een Marea Chinei de Sud printr-o delt\u0103 imens\u0103. \u00cen drumul s\u0103u trece prin majoritatea \u021b\u0103rilor din peninsul\u0103 Myanmar, Laos, Thailanda, Cambodgia \u0219i sudul Vietnamului. Spre deosebire de alte mari fluvii ale lumii, cum ar fi Yangtse, Mississippi, Amazon, Nil sau Gange, ce curg doar prin una sau dou\u0103 \u021b\u0103ri, Mekong-ul este mai degrab\u0103 un r\u00e2u al grani\u021belor. \u00cen afar\u0103 de notabila civiliza\u021bie a khmerilor cambodgieni nici o alt\u0103 mare civiliza\u021bie nu s-a coagulat pe malurile lui. De vin\u0103 pentru aceast\u0103 anomalie sunt varia\u021biile sezoniere extreme ale debitului s\u0103u, faptul c\u0103 trece deseori prin chei spectaculoase iar de-a lungul cursului lui sunt pres\u0103rate nenum\u0103rate praguri \u0219i cascade, f\u0103c\u00e2ndu-l aproape nenavigabil. Caracterul tumultuos al Mekong-ului nu poate fi \u00eens\u0103 observat \u00een Delt\u0103. \u00cencep\u00e2nd cu v\u00e2rful deltei, aflat \u00een preajma capitalei cambodgiene Phnom Penh \u0219i p\u00e2n\u0103 la  dispari\u021bia lui \u00een Marea Chinei de Sud, Mekong-ul este c\u00e2t se poate de binevoitor \u0219i pa\u0219nic, uit\u00e2ndu-\u0219i toate \u021b\u00e2fnele din amonte. Aici r\u00e2ul se sparge \u00een nenum\u0103rate canale \u0219i c\u0103n\u0103la\u0219e navigabile, potrivite pentru toate tipurile de ambarca\u021biuni fluviale. Pe malurile lor s-au culcu\u0219it nenum\u0103rate or\u0103\u0219ele \u0219i sate iar terenurile agricole pot sus\u021bine o popula\u021bie vast\u0103. Delta Mekong este de departe cea mai productiv\u0103 regiune a Vietnamului \u00een agricultur\u0103 \u0219i acvacultur\u0103. C\u00e2t vezi cu ochii dai de lanuri \u0219i lanuri de orez. \u00centr-una din zile am fost \u0219i noi \u00eentr-o excursie la \u021bar\u0103, \u00een Delta Mekong-ului. Am plecat din Saigon cu autocarul, diminea\u021ba, dup\u0103 micul dejun \u0219i dup\u0103 un ceas \u0219i ceva am ajuns \u00eentr-un or\u0103\u0219el pe nume Cai Be aflat jum\u0103tate pe ap\u0103, jum\u0103tate pe uscat. Acolo ne-am \u00eembarcat pe un vapora\u0219 turistic viu colorat \u0219i am pornit pe r\u00e2u \u00een jos, p\u00e2n\u0103 pe o insuli\u021b\u0103 numit\u0103 T\u00e2n Phong. Pe insuli\u021b\u0103 am fost urca\u021bi \u00een ni\u0219te ambarca\u021biuni mai mititele numite sampan, m\u00e2nuite de c\u00e2te o doamn\u0103 v\u00e2sl\u0103\u0219i\u021b\u0103, cu ajutorul c\u0103rora am traversat insuli\u021ba pe canale \u00eenguste, plutind pe sub bol\u021bile verzi ale copacilor printre casele oamenilor ce deseori st\u0103teau coco\u021bate pe piloni \u00eenfip\u021bi \u00een ap\u0103, ca ni\u0219te cocost\u00e2rci. Am \u00eenc\u0103put c\u00e2te patru \u00eentr-un sampan, o barc\u0103 din lemn cu fund relativ plat, unul \u00een spatele celuilalt. Plutonul \u00eel \u00eenchidea gazda ce st\u0103tea \u00een picioare m\u00e2nuind v\u00e2sle extrem de lungi. Nu de pu\u021bine ori ne-am \u00eempotmolit \u00een covoarele de zambile de apa ce p\u0103reau c\u0103 vor s\u0103 blocheze canalele. Dup\u0103 ce-am \u00eencheiat experien\u021ba cu sampanul am fost pofti\u021bi \u00eentr-o gospod\u0103rie pentru o sesiune de degustare a frunctelor din propria livad\u0103 \u0219i pentru a vedea un mic spectacol de don-ca-tai-tu sus\u021binut de gazde \u0219i probabil de vreo doi vecini de-ai lor. Timp de aproximativ jum\u0103tate de ceas am fost pu\u0219i la curent cu via\u021ba de zi cu zi a locuitorilor deltei, cu tehnicile de pescuit \u0219i de prindere a racilor, cu b\u00e2rfele, flirturile \u0219i scandalurile din sat. Povestea interpretat\u0103 pe scen\u0103 a fost acompaniat\u0103 de c\u00e2teva instrumente muzicale, unele ciud\u0103\u021bele altele recognoscibile. Dup\u0103 unele p\u0103reri  termenul tai-tu \u00eenseamn\u0103 amator dar \u00een realitate \u00eenseamn\u0103 talentat. C\u00e2nt\u0103re\u021bii de pe scen\u0103 nu-\u0219i c\u00e2\u0219tigau existen\u021ba practic\u00eend muzica, ci o f\u0103ceau mai degrab\u0103 din pasiune. \u00cen aceast\u0103 gospod\u0103rie mi s-a deslu\u0219it \u00een sf\u00e2r\u0219it misterul miilor de cop\u0103cei exploda\u021bi, cu flori galbene, pe care i-am tot v\u0103zut \u00een Saigon \u0219i prin \u00eemtrejurimi. Gr\u0103dina din jurul casei era plin\u0103 de ei. Cop\u0103ceii respectivi sunt de fapt cai\u0219i cu flori galbene \u0219i sunt simbolul s\u0103rb\u0103torii Tet, a anului nou lunar, \u00een sudul Vietnamului. Ghidul nostru ne spunea c\u0103 Tet ar fi incomplet f\u0103r\u0103 florile galbene de cais. Spre deosebire de alte flori folosite \u00een timpul acestei s\u0103rb\u0103tori, care ar trebui s\u0103 fie complet deschise \u00eenc\u0103 de la \u00eenceputul s\u0103rb\u0103torii, cai\u0219ii sunt a\u0219tepta\u021bi s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eenceap\u0103 \u00eenflorirea abia \u00een primele zile ale Tet pentru a marca un debut prosper al noului an. Exist\u0103 \u0219i obiceiul de-a rupe frunzele cop\u0103ceilor de cais cu aproximativ dou\u0103 s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2ni \u00eenainte de Tet pentru a asigura o \u00eenflorire mai abundent\u0103 \u0219i \u00een acest fel un an nou c\u00e2t mai prosper. Dup\u0103 \u00eencheierea vizitei \u00een gospod\u0103rie ne-am \u00eembarcat iar \u00een vapora\u0219ul ini\u021bial \u0219i-am mers \u00een Cai Be pentru alte activit\u0103\u021bi turistico-comerciale. Am vizitat un atelier local unde ne-am pus la curent cu procesul fabric\u0103rii h\u00e2rtiei de orez, al bomboanelor din nuc\u0103 de cocos, al floricelelor din orez \u0219i al unui rachiu de orez, acompaniate (aproape) toate de sesiuni de degustare. Din p\u0103cate pia\u021ba plutitoare din Cai Be nu era deschis\u0103. Pe la pr\u00e2nz am fost invita\u021bi la mas\u0103 \u00eentr-un restaurant simandicos ce-avea pere\u021bii de lemn \u00eempodobi\u021bi cu intarsii din sidef. P\u0103rea a fi o re\u0219edin\u021b\u0103 boiereasc\u0103 provenit\u0103 din alte vremuri. Pr\u00e2nzul pus pe mas\u0103 a fost \u0219i el delicios. Cu bur\u021bile pline \u0219i cu nervii calma\u021bi de serenitatea vie\u021bii de la \u021bar\u0103 ne-am \u00eendreptat apoi spre autocarul ce-avea s\u0103 ne duc\u0103 \u00eenapoi \u00een vacarmul Saigonului. +8 0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":47680,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[908,685,688],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-47679","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-vietnam","category-asia","category-calatorii"],"yoast_head":"\nPrin Delta Mekongului - 🇻🇳 Vietnam - Uli\u021barnica<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Delta Mekongului, un p\u0103m\u00e2nt al apelor \u0219i o orez\u0103rie nesf\u00e2r\u0219it\u0103. 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