{"id":47661,"date":"2025-04-09T18:34:35","date_gmt":"2025-04-09T16:34:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/?p=47661"},"modified":"2026-05-16T14:29:46","modified_gmt":"2026-05-16T12:29:46","slug":"tunelele-de-la-cu-chi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/tunelele-de-la-cu-chi\/","title":{"rendered":"Tunelele de la Cu Chi <\/br> Jurnal din Indochina - capitolul 3<\/span>"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Pe drumul de \u00eentoarcere din Tay Ninh la Saigon ne-am oprit \u00een Cu Chi <\/em>pentru a ne juca pu\u021bin de-a r\u0103zboiul. Or\u0103\u0219elul acesta se afl\u0103 la vreo 20km nord-vest de Saigon, nu departe de grani\u021ba cu Cambodgia \u0219i este \u00een zilele noastre o atrac\u021bia turistic\u0103 major\u0103. Aici pot fi inspectate \u00eendeaproape tunelurile s\u0103pate \u00een p\u0103m\u00e2nt \u00een timpul r\u0103zboiului din Vietnam \u0219i folosite \u00een lupta de gheril\u0103 pe care a dus-o Viet-Cong-ul \u00eempotriva americanilor \u0219i a for\u021belor armate din Vietnamul de Sud. Dup\u0103 terminarea r\u0103zboiului \u0219i dup\u0103 reunificare guvernul Vietnamului a conservat complexul de tuneluri de aici, lungi de vreo 121 km \u0219i le-a trasformat \u00eentr-un parc memorial de r\u0103zboi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Accesul publicului nu e permis chiar peste tot ci doar \u00een dou\u0103 sec\u021biuni „manichiurate” pe nume Ben Dinh \u0219i Ben Duoc. Din c\u00e2te \u00eemi amintesc eu noi am atacat por\u021biunea Ben Dinh. Organizatorii au avut grij\u0103 s\u0103 nu-\u0219i sperie oaspe\u021bii prea tare a\u0219a c\u0103 au amenajat sec\u021biunile ca pe un muzeu \u00een aer liber. C\u0103l\u0103torul p\u0103\u0219e\u0219te pe c\u0103r\u0103ri bine delimitate rupte din jungl\u0103 \u0219i nu are nici o \u0219ans\u0103 s\u0103 cad\u0103 \u00eentr-o capcan\u0103 plin\u0103 de \u021bepu\u0219e ascu\u021bite pentru c\u0103 sunt bine izolate. Prin jungl\u0103 se g\u0103sesc \u0219i c\u00e2teva bordeie pe jum\u0103tate \u00eengropate \u00een p\u0103m\u00e2nt unde pot fi urm\u0103rite documentare de r\u0103zboi \u0219i despre Cu Chi. P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i tunelurile au fost \u00eembl\u00e2nzite, cel pu\u021bin acela \u00een care am avut voie s\u0103 intr\u0103m. Era un tunel lung de 150m ce-a fost upgradat considerabil: avea ventila\u021bie, era iluminat slab \u0219i, foarte important, a fost l\u0103rgit cu vreo 30 de cm, tunelurile originale fiind f\u0103cute pentru vietnamezi mititei \u0219i sl\u0103b\u0103nogi nu pentru turi\u0219ti \u00eenal\u021bi \u0219i durdulii. Oricum, \u00eenainte de a cobor\u00ee \u00een el am fost \u00eentreba\u021bi dac\u0103 suferim de claustrofobie sau dac\u0103 avem ceva probleme cardiace. Cei \u00eenal\u021bi \u0219i mai plinu\u021bi au fost sf\u0103tui\u021bi s\u0103 sar\u0103 peste aceast\u0103 experien\u021b\u0103. Ghidul nostru ne-a m\u0103rturisit c\u0103 prin tunelurile adev\u0103rate nu-i de joac\u0103. Acolo trebuie s\u0103 te t\u00e2r\u00e2i pe burt\u0103 \u0219i sunt por\u021biuni prin care abia de po\u021bi trece. Ne-a povestit \u0219i cum a r\u0103mas el \u00een\u021bepenit \u00eentr-un tunel dintr-\u0103sta, demult de tot, c\u00e2nd era t\u00e2n\u0103r \u0219i sub\u021birel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cenainte de-a p\u0103r\u0103si definitiv complexul am fost pofti\u021bi s\u0103 tragem cu arme ca cele folosite \u00een r\u0103zboi \u00eentr-un poligon de tragere dar am preferat \u00een schimb s\u0103 ne r\u0103t\u0103cim printre rafturile unui magazina\u0219 cu suveniruri. Vizita noastr\u0103 prin complexul de la Cu Chi a fost mai degrab\u0103 amuzant\u0103 \u0219i singurii inamici cu care am avut de-a face au fost \u021b\u00e2n\u021barii din jungl\u0103. C\u00e2t de diferit\u0103 a fost via\u021ba celor care au fost nevoi\u021bi s\u0103 tr\u0103iasc\u0103 \u0219i s\u0103 lupte prin aceste tuneluri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Primele tuneluri din Cu Chi au fost s\u0103pate \u00eenc\u0103 de pe la sf\u00e2r\u0219itul anilor 1940, \u00een timpul r\u0103zboiului \u00eempotriva coloniali\u0219tilor francezi. Trupele Viet Minh au folosit atunci tunelurile pe post de ascunz\u0103toare, pentru a trece u\u0219or dintr-un sat \u00een altul \u0219i pentru a evita capturarea. Le-au s\u0103pat pe distan\u021be scurte, manual, folosind unelte simple. Pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce situa\u021bia politic\u0103 s-a complicat \u0219i dup\u0103 \u00eenceperea r\u0103zboiului civil, Viet Minh-ul ce se refugiase \u00een nord \u0219i-a amintit de importan\u021ba tunelurilor \u0219i le-a folosit pentru a alimenta cu solda\u021bi, arme \u0219i muni\u021bii Viet Cong-ul din sud. Cu Chi se afl\u0103 taman la cap\u0103tul C\u0103r\u0103rii Ho Chi Minh, principala cale de aprovizionare a lupt\u0103torilor din sud ce pornea din Vietnamul de nord \u0219i trecea prin Laos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cu timpul tunelurile s-au lungit astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t s\u0103 formeze un labirint subteran ce avea peste 200 km de c\u0103r\u0103rui. Imaginea prezentat\u0103 \u00eentr-un panou ce ar\u0103ta o sec\u021biune transversal\u0103 te ducea cu mintea la un \u0219vai\u021ber. Existau acolo dormitoare, camere de spital, buc\u0103t\u0103rii, chiar \u0219i c\u00e2teva s\u0103li de clas\u0103, depozite de materiale \u0219i armament. Ghidul nostru ne povestea de capcane, pu\u021buri de ventila\u021bie greu detectabile, fund\u0103turi, rute c\u0103tre ap\u0103 potabil\u0103 \u0219i c\u0103i de evacuare c\u0103tre r\u00e2ul Mekong. Ne mai povestea despre ingenioase tehnici de supravie\u021buire. Lupt\u0103torii Viet Cong \u0219i familiile lor s-au mutat de fapt \u00een subteran pe tot parcursul r\u0103zboiului evit\u00e2nd astfel bombardamentele prin care americanii sperau s\u0103-i eradicheze. Au trebuit s\u0103 duc\u0103 de acolo un r\u0103zboi foarte dur de gheril\u0103 \u0219i s\u0103-\u0219i contracareze du\u0219manii cu mijloace precare dar cu o mare inventivitate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Trebuie s\u0103 fi fost cumplit s\u0103 tr\u0103ie\u0219ti sub p\u0103m\u00e2nt \u0219i s\u0103 te t\u00e2r\u0103\u0219ti prin tuneluri umede, ur\u00e2t mirositoare \u0219i \u00eentunecate, infestate de g\u00e2ng\u0103niile junglei. Deasupra ta s\u0103 explodeze bombele, s\u0103 ard\u0103 p\u0103durea sau s\u0103 fie topit\u0103 cu ierbicide otr\u0103vitoare. S\u0103 \u0219tii c\u0103 po\u021bi fi intoxicat cu fumigenele inamicului care dore\u0219te s\u0103 te scoat\u0103 din ascunz\u0103toare ca s\u0103 te \u00eempu\u0219te. \u0218i totu\u0219i, oameni \u00een carne \u0219i oase au rezistat ani de zile \u00een astfel de condi\u021bii \u0219i p\u00e2n\u0103 la urm\u0103 au \u0219i \u00eenvins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dumnezeu trebuie s\u0103-i fi f\u0103cut pe vietnamezii ace\u0219tia dintr-un material foarte dur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
O hart\u0103 cu locurile \u00een care erau s\u0103pate tuneluri<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Un exemplu de cum ar\u0103tau tunelurile, \u00eentr-o sec\u021biune transversal\u0103<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
O trap\u0103 de intrare \u00eentr-un tunel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Dac\u0103 m\u0103 \u00eencumetam eu s\u0103 intru pe porti\u021ba aceea cred c\u0103 r\u0103m\u00e2neam \u00een\u021bepenit\u0103<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
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\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Iac\u0103t\u0103 \u0219i tunelul pentru turi\u0219ti<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Nu aveai loc s\u0103 mergi prin el dec\u00e2t \u00een mersul piticului sau rupt \u00een dou\u0103 de \u0219ale<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Cine se \u00eencumet\u0103 s\u0103 treac\u0103 prin aceas\u0103 g\u0103uric\u0103?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Guri de aerisire camuflate sub forma unui mu\u0219uroi de termite<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
O mostr\u0103 de ingeniozitate. \u021aeav\u0103 de bambus prin care curge ap\u0103 de izvor.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
La sf\u00e2r\u0219it am fost trata\u021bi cu tapioca \u0219i cu ceai, drept premiu de bun\u0103 purtare<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Bye-bye lupt\u0103torilor. A\u021bi avut ceva stof\u0103 de-a\u021bi putut tr\u0103i \u0219i lupta prin tunelurile astea<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n
0<\/span><\/a><\/div> <\/div>
<\/div><\/div>
<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pe drumul de \u00eentoarcere din Tay Ninh la Saigon ne-am oprit \u00een Cu Chi pentru a ne juca pu\u021bin de-a r\u0103zboiul. Or\u0103\u0219elul acesta se afl\u0103 la vreo 20km nord-vest de Saigon, nu departe de grani\u021ba cu Cambodgia \u0219i este \u00een zilele noastre o atrac\u021bia turistic\u0103 major\u0103. Aici pot fi inspectate \u00eendeaproape tunelurile s\u0103pate \u00een p\u0103m\u00e2nt \u00een timpul r\u0103zboiului din Vietnam \u0219i folosite \u00een lupta de gheril\u0103 pe care a dus-o Viet-Cong-ul \u00eempotriva americanilor \u0219i a for\u021belor armate din Vietnamul de Sud. Dup\u0103 terminarea r\u0103zboiului \u0219i dup\u0103 reunificare guvernul Vietnamului a conservat complexul de tuneluri de aici, lungi de vreo 121 km \u0219i le-a trasformat \u00eentr-un parc memorial de r\u0103zboi. Accesul publicului nu e permis chiar peste tot ci doar \u00een dou\u0103 sec\u021biuni „manichiurate” pe nume Ben Dinh \u0219i Ben Duoc. Din c\u00e2te \u00eemi amintesc eu noi am atacat por\u021biunea Ben Dinh. Organizatorii au avut grij\u0103 s\u0103 nu-\u0219i sperie oaspe\u021bii prea tare a\u0219a c\u0103 au amenajat sec\u021biunile ca pe un muzeu \u00een aer liber. C\u0103l\u0103torul p\u0103\u0219e\u0219te pe c\u0103r\u0103ri bine delimitate rupte din jungl\u0103 \u0219i nu are nici o \u0219ans\u0103 s\u0103 cad\u0103 \u00eentr-o capcan\u0103 plin\u0103 de \u021bepu\u0219e ascu\u021bite pentru c\u0103 sunt bine izolate. Prin jungl\u0103 se g\u0103sesc \u0219i c\u00e2teva bordeie pe jum\u0103tate \u00eengropate \u00een p\u0103m\u00e2nt unde pot fi urm\u0103rite documentare de r\u0103zboi \u0219i despre Cu Chi. P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i tunelurile au fost \u00eembl\u00e2nzite, cel pu\u021bin acela \u00een care am avut voie s\u0103 intr\u0103m. Era un tunel lung de 150m ce-a fost upgradat considerabil: avea ventila\u021bie, era iluminat slab \u0219i, foarte important, a fost l\u0103rgit cu vreo 30 de cm, tunelurile originale fiind f\u0103cute pentru vietnamezi mititei \u0219i sl\u0103b\u0103nogi nu pentru turi\u0219ti \u00eenal\u021bi \u0219i durdulii. Oricum, \u00eenainte de a cobor\u00ee \u00een el am fost \u00eentreba\u021bi dac\u0103 suferim de claustrofobie sau dac\u0103 avem ceva probleme cardiace. Cei \u00eenal\u021bi \u0219i mai plinu\u021bi au fost sf\u0103tui\u021bi s\u0103 sar\u0103 peste aceast\u0103 experien\u021b\u0103. Ghidul nostru ne-a m\u0103rturisit c\u0103 prin tunelurile adev\u0103rate nu-i de joac\u0103. Acolo trebuie s\u0103 te t\u00e2r\u00e2i pe burt\u0103 \u0219i sunt por\u021biuni prin care abia de po\u021bi trece. Ne-a povestit \u0219i cum a r\u0103mas el \u00een\u021bepenit \u00eentr-un tunel dintr-\u0103sta, demult de tot, c\u00e2nd era t\u00e2n\u0103r \u0219i sub\u021birel. \u00cenainte de-a p\u0103r\u0103si definitiv complexul am fost pofti\u021bi s\u0103 tragem cu arme ca cele folosite \u00een r\u0103zboi \u00eentr-un poligon de tragere dar am preferat \u00een schimb s\u0103 ne r\u0103t\u0103cim printre rafturile unui magazina\u0219 cu suveniruri. Vizita noastr\u0103 prin complexul de la Cu Chi a fost mai degrab\u0103 amuzant\u0103 \u0219i singurii inamici cu care am avut de-a face au fost \u021b\u00e2n\u021barii din jungl\u0103. C\u00e2t de diferit\u0103 a fost via\u021ba celor care au fost nevoi\u021bi s\u0103 tr\u0103iasc\u0103 \u0219i s\u0103 lupte prin aceste tuneluri. Primele tuneluri din Cu Chi au fost s\u0103pate \u00eenc\u0103 de pe la sf\u00e2r\u0219itul anilor 1940, \u00een timpul r\u0103zboiului \u00eempotriva coloniali\u0219tilor francezi. Trupele Viet Minh au folosit atunci tunelurile pe post de ascunz\u0103toare, pentru a trece u\u0219or dintr-un sat \u00een altul \u0219i pentru a evita capturarea. Le-au s\u0103pat pe distan\u021be scurte, manual, folosind unelte simple. Pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce situa\u021bia politic\u0103 s-a complicat \u0219i dup\u0103 \u00eenceperea r\u0103zboiului civil, Viet Minh-ul ce se refugiase \u00een nord \u0219i-a amintit de importan\u021ba tunelurilor \u0219i le-a folosit pentru a alimenta cu solda\u021bi, arme \u0219i muni\u021bii Viet Cong-ul din sud. Cu Chi se afl\u0103 taman la cap\u0103tul C\u0103r\u0103rii Ho Chi Minh, principala cale de aprovizionare a lupt\u0103torilor din sud ce pornea din Vietnamul de nord \u0219i trecea prin Laos. Cu timpul tunelurile s-au lungit astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t s\u0103 formeze un labirint subteran ce avea peste 200 km de c\u0103r\u0103rui. Imaginea prezentat\u0103 \u00eentr-un panou ce ar\u0103ta o sec\u021biune transversal\u0103 te ducea cu mintea la un \u0219vai\u021ber. Existau acolo dormitoare, camere de spital, buc\u0103t\u0103rii, chiar \u0219i c\u00e2teva s\u0103li de clas\u0103, depozite de materiale \u0219i armament. Ghidul nostru ne povestea de capcane, pu\u021buri de ventila\u021bie greu detectabile, fund\u0103turi, rute c\u0103tre ap\u0103 potabil\u0103 \u0219i c\u0103i de evacuare c\u0103tre r\u00e2ul Mekong. Ne mai povestea despre ingenioase tehnici de supravie\u021buire. Lupt\u0103torii Viet Cong \u0219i familiile lor s-au mutat de fapt \u00een subteran pe tot parcursul r\u0103zboiului evit\u00e2nd astfel bombardamentele prin care americanii sperau s\u0103-i eradicheze. Au trebuit s\u0103 duc\u0103 de acolo un r\u0103zboi foarte dur de gheril\u0103 \u0219i s\u0103-\u0219i contracareze du\u0219manii cu mijloace precare dar cu o mare inventivitate. Trebuie s\u0103 fi fost cumplit s\u0103 tr\u0103ie\u0219ti sub p\u0103m\u00e2nt \u0219i s\u0103 te t\u00e2r\u0103\u0219ti prin tuneluri umede, ur\u00e2t mirositoare \u0219i \u00eentunecate, infestate de g\u00e2ng\u0103niile junglei. Deasupra ta s\u0103 explodeze bombele, s\u0103 ard\u0103 p\u0103durea sau s\u0103 fie topit\u0103 cu ierbicide otr\u0103vitoare. S\u0103 \u0219tii c\u0103 po\u021bi fi intoxicat cu fumigenele inamicului care dore\u0219te s\u0103 te scoat\u0103 din ascunz\u0103toare ca s\u0103 te \u00eempu\u0219te. \u0218i totu\u0219i, oameni \u00een carne \u0219i oase au rezistat ani de zile \u00een astfel de condi\u021bii \u0219i p\u00e2n\u0103 la urm\u0103 au \u0219i \u00eenvins. Dumnezeu trebuie s\u0103-i fi f\u0103cut pe vietnamezii ace\u0219tia dintr-un material foarte dur. +11 0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":47667,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[908,685,688],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-47661","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-vietnam","category-asia","category-calatorii"],"yoast_head":"\nTunelele de la Cu Chi - 🇻🇳 Vietnam - Uli\u021barnica<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Tunelele din Cu Chi sau joaca de-a r\u0103zboiul. 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