{"id":42471,"date":"2023-12-14T15:50:45","date_gmt":"2023-12-14T13:50:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/?p=42471"},"modified":"2026-07-11T11:26:37","modified_gmt":"2026-07-11T09:26:37","slug":"pietele-de-craciun-ale-tarilor-baltice","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/pietele-de-craciun-ale-tarilor-baltice\/","title":{"rendered":"Pie\u021bele de Cr\u0103ciun ale \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice <\/br> Jurnal baltic - cuv\u00e2nt \u00eenainte<\/span>"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Dac-ar fi s\u0103 aleg un animal totemic care s\u0103-mi reprezinte preferin\u021bele \u00eentr-ale c\u0103l\u0103toriilor a\u0219 alege sigur unul c\u0103ruia \u00eei place s\u0103 hiberneze iarna, un urs poate, sau un arici sau o marmot\u0103. Ce poate fi mai pl\u0103cut dec\u00e2t s\u0103 stai culcu\u0219it la gura sobei c\u00e2nd afar\u0103 e frig \u0219i ploaie (m\u0103car de-ar mai ninge din c\u00e2nd \u00een c\u00e2nd) iar ziua e prea scurt\u0103 \u0219i nu te \u00eendeamn\u0103 la hoin\u0103rit. \u0218i totu\u0219i …  m-am pricopsit cu dorin\u021ba de-a vedea o \u021bar\u0103 nordic\u0103 pe timp de iarn\u0103 taman la Sankt Petersburg. Am nimerit \u00een acel ora\u0219 la mijlocul verii dar pe o vreme gri-ce\u021bos-mohor\u00e2t\u0103 \u0219i z\u0103u c-a\u0219 fi preferat s\u0103 v\u0103d Neva \u00eenghe\u021bat\u0103 iar acele minunate palate a\u0219ezate \u00eentr-un decor de nea alb-imaculat\u0103. Mi-am propus atunci s\u0103 recidivez. Sankt Petersburg \u00eens\u0103 pare a fi o destina\u021bie inaccesibil\u0103 \u00een vremurile belicoase \u00een care suntem nevoi\u021bi s\u0103 tr\u0103im momentan, a\u0219a c\u0103 mi-am zis c-a venit timpul s\u0103 dau o rait\u0103 prin vecini. \u0218i uit-a\u0219a le-a venit sorocul la vizitat \u0219i \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice. \u00cen plus, \u00een perioada aceasta a anului exist\u0103 \u0219i o alt\u0103 tenta\u021bie suficient de puternic\u0103 care s\u0103 m\u0103 fac\u0103 s\u0103 ies din cas\u0103, t\u00e2rgurile de Cr\u0103ciun. M\u0103 \u0219i imaginam cotrob\u0103ind dup\u0103 juc\u0103rele simpatice prin vitrinele c\u0103su\u021belor acoperite de z\u0103pad\u0103, la umbra unui brad \u00eempodobit, ridicat \u00een mijlocul unor or\u0103\u0219ele cu iz medieval, ron\u021b\u0103ind ceva bun \u0219i sorbind dintr-un vin fiert \u0219i aromat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am plecat a\u0219adar la sf\u00e2r\u0219it de noiembrie \u00eentr-o excursie organizat\u0103 ce s-a intitulat chiar a\u0219a Pie\u021bele de Cr\u0103ciun ale \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice<\/em>. A durat o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i ne-a purtat prin Estonia, Letonia \u0219i Lituania, via Var\u0219ovia unde am avut escale \u0219i la plecare \u0219i la \u00eentoarcerea acas\u0103. Principalele obiective din program au fost cele trei capitale baltice, Tallinn, Riga \u0219i Vilnius. Am petrecut o zi \u00eentreag\u0103 \u00een fiecare dintre ele, diminea\u021ba \u00eentr-un tur de vreo trei ceasuri \u00eempreun\u0103 cu un ghid local iar dup\u0103 amiaza de capul nostru, fiecare dup\u0103 inspira\u021bie. Deplas\u0103rile dintr-un ora\u0219 \u00een altul le-am f\u0103cut cu autocarul \u0219i au durat \u0219i ele c\u00e2te o zi \u00eentreag\u0103, nu neaparat datorit\u0103 distan\u021belor pe care le-am avut de parcurs ci pentru c\u0103 am f\u0103cut pauze pentru vizitarea altor puncte de interes aflate pe traseu. Dac\u0103 ar fi s\u0103 compar excursia aceasta cu cele f\u0103cute \u00een destina\u021biile exotice precum China sau Nepal-Buthan a\u0219 putea spune c\u0103 acum am fost \u00eentr-adev\u0103r \u00een vacan\u021b\u0103, nu mi-a ie\u0219it sufletul de-at\u00e2ta alergat ca bezmetica dintr-un loc \u00een altul.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cele trei capitale baltice nu sunt ora\u0219e foarte mari de felul lor iar zona de maxim interes e adunat\u0103 toat\u0103 \u00een buricul t\u00e2rgului, \u00een vechiul burg medieval \u00een jurul c\u0103ruia s-a dezvoltat mai apoi ora\u0219ul modern. Drept urmare nu dau prea mult\u0103 b\u0103taie de cap c\u0103l\u0103torului. P\u0103r\u021bile acestea vechi sunt \u00eentr-o propor\u021bie foarte mare doar pietonale a\u0219a c\u0103 sunt \u0219i mai lini\u0219tite, mai pu\u021bin aglomerate, d\u00e2nd ora\u0219elor un aer oarecum provincial, mai ales pe \u00eenserat c\u00e2nd mai toat\u0103 lumea se retrage pe la casele lor \u0219i las\u0103 str\u0103zile pustii. Mie uneia mi-a pl\u0103cut s\u0103 colind alandala, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103-mi bat capul cu obiectivele de „bifat” \u0219i savur\u00e2nd timpul liber avut la dispozi\u021bie. M-am sim\u021bit aproape ca acas\u0103, locurile \u00eemi p\u0103reau vag familiare, or\u0103\u0219elele acestea medievale fiind surori bune cu cele din Ardeal. Am avut parte de z\u0103pad\u0103 c\u00e2t pentru \u00eentreaga iarn\u0103, am b\u0103ut vin fiert \u0219i-am ron\u021b\u0103it \u0219i bun\u0103t\u0103\u021bi. Doar cu T\u00e2rgurile de Cr\u0103ciun am dat chix, au cam lipsit aproape cu des\u0103v\u00e2r\u0219ire deoarece autorit\u0103\u021bile locale au hot\u0103r\u00e2t s\u0103 am\u00e2ne deschiderea lor cu o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103.  Le-am ratat la musta\u021b\u0103, doar \u00een Lituania am g\u0103sit deschise dou\u0103, \u00een Kaunas \u0219i \u00een Vilnius. Mi s-au p\u0103rut \u00eens\u0103 cam pr\u0103p\u0103dite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cu ocazia acestei excursii am aflat o gr\u0103mad\u0103 de lucruri interesante despre cele trei \u021b\u0103ri\u0219oare baltice, ce nu sunt tocmai „la mod\u0103” printre doritorii de c\u0103l\u0103torii. De-acum \u00eenainte n-am s\u0103 le mai \u00eencurc capitalele \u0219i n-am s\u0103 le mai plasez aiurea pe hart\u0103, p\u00e2n\u0103 acum nereu\u0219ind s\u0103-mi amintesc niciodat\u0103 care dintre ele se afl\u0103 mai la nord \u0219i care mai la sud. \u0218i tot medit\u00e2nd la soarta lor „istoric\u0103” am ajuns la concluzia c\u0103 ne asem\u0103n\u0103m \u00eentr-o oare\u0219icare m\u0103sur\u0103. La fel ca \u0219i noi, popoarele baltice sunt nevoite s\u0103 tr\u0103iasc\u0103 la hotarele unor imperii \u0219i s\u0103 \u00eendure toate dezavantajele ce decurg din acest fapt – vezi frica noastr\u0103 comun\u0103 de ru\u0219i. \u0218i ele, poate \u00eentr-o m\u0103sur\u0103 mai mare dec\u00e2t noi, ar putea fi considerate o „enigm\u0103 \u0219i un miracol istoric”. Urma\u0219ele unor popula\u021bii ce \u00eencepeau s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eenchege forma\u021biuni statale abia prin secolul 13 al erei noastre (\u00eent\u00e2rzia\u021bi la fel ca \u0219i noi), vorbesc limbi ciudate \u0219i nefamiliare. Noi ne consider\u0103m o insul\u0103 latin\u0103 \u00eentr-o mare slav\u0103. Estonienii vorbesc o limb\u0103 ugro-finic\u0103 \u00eenrudit\u0103 doar cu finlandeza \u0219i maghiara. Letonii \u0219i lituanienii vorbesc limbi baltice, considerate a fi unele dintre cele mai arhaice limbi indo-europene, rude mai apropiate cu sanscrita dec\u00e2t cu engleza. Este un soi de miracol faptul c-au supravie\u021buit, nu toate limbile vorbite \u00een acel col\u021b de lume au ajuns p\u00e2n\u0103 la noi, vezi prusaca veche sau livoniana. Ceva-ceva tot ne deosebe\u0219te \u00eens\u0103. Spre deosebire de rom\u00e2ni, care se consider\u0103 a fi cre\u0219tini \u00eenc\u0103 de pe vremea Sf\u00e2ntului Andrei, popoarele baltice au r\u0103mas p\u0103g\u00e2ne p\u00e2n\u0103 t\u00e2rziu. Intrarea lor \u00een istorie s-a produs prin secolul al 12- lea \u0219i al 13-lea, pe vremea c\u00e2nd Papa de la Roma le-a dat liber cavalerilor germani s\u0103 plece \u00een cruciad\u0103 \u00een nord, s\u0103-i cre\u0219tineze pe ultimii p\u0103g\u00e2ni ai Europei. Teritoriile pe care le-au cucerit \u0219i colonizat le-au denumit dup\u0103 numele du\u0219manilor pe care i-au biruit – pe de o parte Prusia, dup\u0103 tribul baltic al vechilor prusaci, pe de alt\u0103 parte Livonia (aproximativ Letonia + Estonia de ast\u0103zi) dup\u0103 tribul livonienilor. Doar lituanienii le-au \u021binut piept crucia\u021bilor, reu\u0219ind s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eentemeieze un ducat propriu suficient de puternic ca s\u0103 se \u00eempotriveasc\u0103 Ordinului Cavalerilor Teutoni. Lituanienii erau dealtfel \u0219i litvele p\u0103g\u00e2ne din vechile cronici moldovene\u0219ti. P\u00e2n\u0103 la urm\u0103 nu au rezistat nici ei prea mult timp, au fost nevoi\u021bi totu\u0219i s\u0103 se cre\u0219tineze \u0219i s\u0103 se alieze cu regatul Poloniei, alian\u021b\u0103 ce-a devenit cu timpul o adev\u0103rat\u0103 uniune de state, partea avantajat\u0103 fiind Polonia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0218i, dup\u0103 p\u0103rerea mea, ar mai fi o asem\u0103nare cu noi, mai ales cu rom\u00e2nii din Ardeal. Letonii \u0219i estonienii au fost p\u00e2n\u0103 la primul r\u0103zboi mondial un fel de cet\u0103\u021beni de categoria a doua \u00een propria lor \u021bar\u0103. La \u00eenceputuri clasa conduc\u0103toare \u00een Livonia era german\u0103 iar dup\u0103 cucerirea \u021barist\u0103 rus\u0103. \u00cen cazul Lituaniei, polonii erau la putere iar apoi tot ru\u0219ii. Elitele baltice, la fel ca \u0219i elitele rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti din Transilvania, au fost asimilate \u00een clasele dominante ale vremii, devenind germani, poloni sau ru\u0219i. Abia dup\u0103 1918 au reu\u0219it \u0219i popoarele baltice s\u0103-\u0219i c\u00e2\u0219tige drepturile \u0219i s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eentemeieze propriile state na\u021bionale. Situa\u021bia nu a durat mult, dup\u0103 al doilea r\u0103zboi mondial cele trei \u021b\u0103ri\u0219oare fiind metamorfozate \u00een Republici Socialiste Sovietice, fericire de care noi am sc\u0103pat. \u00cen zilele noastre st\u0103m \u0219i ei \u0219i noi ag\u0103\u021ba\u021bi de umbrela NATO \u0219i UE tr\u0103g\u00e2nd speran\u021ba c\u0103 la o adic\u0103 o avea cine s\u0103 ne sar\u0103 \u00een ajutor, c\u0103 obstacolele ar fi mai u\u0219or de dep\u0103\u0219it c\u00e2nd ai prieteni puternici. Via\u021ba la marginea Europei este \u00eens\u0103 cam grea. Cele trei \u021b\u0103ri baltice, considerate p\u00e2n\u0103 nu demult tigrii Europei, par a se mole\u0219i. De c\u00e2nd cu r\u0103zboiul din Ucraina cre\u0219terea economic\u0103 s-a redus dramatic iar infla\u021bia a crescut. P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i c\u0103l\u0103tori r\u0103zle\u021bi ca noi, oaspe\u021bi de-o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103, am putut sesiza c\u0103 via\u021ba nu e tocmai roz aici. Un p\u0103h\u0103rel cu vin fiert 5 euro … un pumn de migdale date prin mirodenii 5 euro … P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i am\u00e2natele \u0219i nu tocmai bogatele Pie\u021be de Cr\u0103ciun pot depune m\u0103rturie despre cum stau lucrurile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Una peste alta, mie uneia nu mi-a p\u0103rut r\u0103u c\u0103 m-am dus pe timp de iarn\u0103 taman \u00een \u021a\u0103rile Baltice. Iarna are totu\u0219i un farmec aparte aici. \u00cen plus, am tr\u0103it timp de o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 \u00eentr-o atmosfer\u0103 mult mai tihnit\u0103 dec\u00e2t cea de acas\u0103. O fi fost doar o iluzie, cine \u0219tie ce mocne\u0219te dedesuptul acestei normalit\u0103\u021bi lini\u0219titoare. Sper totu\u0219i ca aparen\u021bele s\u0103 nu fie \u00een\u0219el\u0103toare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tallinn din avion, pu\u021bin \u00eenainte de aterizare<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Tallinn de pe metereze<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Iarna pe uli\u021be baltice<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Un melancolic castel leton \u00een Sigulda<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Riga privit\u0103 din turn de biseric\u0103<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Riga privit\u0103 din mijlocul Daugavei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Nu e Neva ci Nevis, dar n-a \u00eenghe\u021bat de tot – \u00een Kaunas, Lituania<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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O mini Pia\u021b\u0103 de Cr\u0103ciun \u00een Kaunas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Kaunas la apus de soare (ora 4 dup\u0103-amiaza)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Vilnius de la \u00een\u0103l\u021bimea cet\u0103\u021bii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Buricul t\u00e2rgului \u00een Vilnius<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Peisaje lacustre \u00een Trakai, Lituania<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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 <\/p>\n

0<\/span><\/a><\/div> <\/div>
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Dac-ar fi s\u0103 aleg un animal totemic care s\u0103-mi reprezinte preferin\u021bele \u00eentr-ale c\u0103l\u0103toriilor a\u0219 alege sigur unul c\u0103ruia \u00eei place s\u0103 hiberneze iarna, un urs poate, sau un arici sau o marmot\u0103. Ce poate fi mai pl\u0103cut dec\u00e2t s\u0103 stai culcu\u0219it la gura sobei c\u00e2nd afar\u0103 e frig \u0219i ploaie (m\u0103car de-ar mai ninge din c\u00e2nd \u00een c\u00e2nd) iar ziua e prea scurt\u0103 \u0219i nu te \u00eendeamn\u0103 la hoin\u0103rit. \u0218i totu\u0219i …  m-am pricopsit cu dorin\u021ba de-a vedea o \u021bar\u0103 nordic\u0103 pe timp de iarn\u0103 taman la Sankt Petersburg. Am nimerit \u00een acel ora\u0219 la mijlocul verii dar pe o vreme gri-ce\u021bos-mohor\u00e2t\u0103 \u0219i z\u0103u c-a\u0219 fi preferat s\u0103 v\u0103d Neva \u00eenghe\u021bat\u0103 iar acele minunate palate a\u0219ezate \u00eentr-un decor de nea alb-imaculat\u0103. Mi-am propus atunci s\u0103 recidivez. Sankt Petersburg \u00eens\u0103 pare a fi o destina\u021bie inaccesibil\u0103 \u00een vremurile belicoase \u00een care suntem nevoi\u021bi s\u0103 tr\u0103im momentan, a\u0219a c\u0103 mi-am zis c-a venit timpul s\u0103 dau o rait\u0103 prin vecini. \u0218i uit-a\u0219a le-a venit sorocul la vizitat \u0219i \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice. \u00cen plus, \u00een perioada aceasta a anului exist\u0103 \u0219i o alt\u0103 tenta\u021bie suficient de puternic\u0103 care s\u0103 m\u0103 fac\u0103 s\u0103 ies din cas\u0103, t\u00e2rgurile de Cr\u0103ciun. M\u0103 \u0219i imaginam cotrob\u0103ind dup\u0103 juc\u0103rele simpatice prin vitrinele c\u0103su\u021belor acoperite de z\u0103pad\u0103, la umbra unui brad \u00eempodobit, ridicat \u00een mijlocul unor or\u0103\u0219ele cu iz medieval, ron\u021b\u0103ind ceva bun \u0219i sorbind dintr-un vin fiert \u0219i aromat. Am plecat a\u0219adar la sf\u00e2r\u0219it de noiembrie \u00eentr-o excursie organizat\u0103 ce s-a intitulat chiar a\u0219a Pie\u021bele de Cr\u0103ciun ale \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice. A durat o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i ne-a purtat prin Estonia, Letonia \u0219i Lituania, via Var\u0219ovia unde am avut escale \u0219i la plecare \u0219i la \u00eentoarcerea acas\u0103. Principalele obiective din program au fost cele trei capitale baltice, Tallinn, Riga \u0219i Vilnius. Am petrecut o zi \u00eentreag\u0103 \u00een fiecare dintre ele, diminea\u021ba \u00eentr-un tur de vreo trei ceasuri \u00eempreun\u0103 cu un ghid local iar dup\u0103 amiaza de capul nostru, fiecare dup\u0103 inspira\u021bie. Deplas\u0103rile dintr-un ora\u0219 \u00een altul le-am f\u0103cut cu autocarul \u0219i au durat \u0219i ele c\u00e2te o zi \u00eentreag\u0103, nu neaparat datorit\u0103 distan\u021belor pe care le-am avut de parcurs ci pentru c\u0103 am f\u0103cut pauze pentru vizitarea altor puncte de interes aflate pe traseu. Dac\u0103 ar fi s\u0103 compar excursia aceasta cu cele f\u0103cute \u00een destina\u021biile exotice precum China sau Nepal-Buthan a\u0219 putea spune c\u0103 acum am fost \u00eentr-adev\u0103r \u00een vacan\u021b\u0103, nu mi-a ie\u0219it sufletul de-at\u00e2ta alergat ca bezmetica dintr-un loc \u00een altul. Cele trei capitale baltice nu sunt ora\u0219e foarte mari de felul lor iar zona de maxim interes e adunat\u0103 toat\u0103 \u00een buricul t\u00e2rgului, \u00een vechiul burg medieval \u00een jurul c\u0103ruia s-a dezvoltat mai apoi ora\u0219ul modern. Drept urmare nu dau prea mult\u0103 b\u0103taie de cap c\u0103l\u0103torului. P\u0103r\u021bile acestea vechi sunt \u00eentr-o propor\u021bie foarte mare doar pietonale a\u0219a c\u0103 sunt \u0219i mai lini\u0219tite, mai pu\u021bin aglomerate, d\u00e2nd ora\u0219elor un aer oarecum provincial, mai ales pe \u00eenserat c\u00e2nd mai toat\u0103 lumea se retrage pe la casele lor \u0219i las\u0103 str\u0103zile pustii. Mie uneia mi-a pl\u0103cut s\u0103 colind alandala, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103-mi bat capul cu obiectivele de „bifat” \u0219i savur\u00e2nd timpul liber avut la dispozi\u021bie. M-am sim\u021bit aproape ca acas\u0103, locurile \u00eemi p\u0103reau vag familiare, or\u0103\u0219elele acestea medievale fiind surori bune cu cele din Ardeal. Am avut parte de z\u0103pad\u0103 c\u00e2t pentru \u00eentreaga iarn\u0103, am b\u0103ut vin fiert \u0219i-am ron\u021b\u0103it \u0219i bun\u0103t\u0103\u021bi. Doar cu T\u00e2rgurile de Cr\u0103ciun am dat chix, au cam lipsit aproape cu des\u0103v\u00e2r\u0219ire deoarece autorit\u0103\u021bile locale au hot\u0103r\u00e2t s\u0103 am\u00e2ne deschiderea lor cu o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103.  Le-am ratat la musta\u021b\u0103, doar \u00een Lituania am g\u0103sit deschise dou\u0103, \u00een Kaunas \u0219i \u00een Vilnius. Mi s-au p\u0103rut \u00eens\u0103 cam pr\u0103p\u0103dite. Cu ocazia acestei excursii am aflat o gr\u0103mad\u0103 de lucruri interesante despre cele trei \u021b\u0103ri\u0219oare baltice, ce nu sunt tocmai „la mod\u0103” printre doritorii de c\u0103l\u0103torii. De-acum \u00eenainte n-am s\u0103 le mai \u00eencurc capitalele \u0219i n-am s\u0103 le mai plasez aiurea pe hart\u0103, p\u00e2n\u0103 acum nereu\u0219ind s\u0103-mi amintesc niciodat\u0103 care dintre ele se afl\u0103 mai la nord \u0219i care mai la sud. \u0218i tot medit\u00e2nd la soarta lor „istoric\u0103” am ajuns la concluzia c\u0103 ne asem\u0103n\u0103m \u00eentr-o oare\u0219icare m\u0103sur\u0103. La fel ca \u0219i noi, popoarele baltice sunt nevoite s\u0103 tr\u0103iasc\u0103 la hotarele unor imperii \u0219i s\u0103 \u00eendure toate dezavantajele ce decurg din acest fapt – vezi frica noastr\u0103 comun\u0103 de ru\u0219i. \u0218i ele, poate \u00eentr-o m\u0103sur\u0103 mai mare dec\u00e2t noi, ar putea fi considerate o „enigm\u0103 \u0219i un miracol istoric”. Urma\u0219ele unor popula\u021bii ce \u00eencepeau s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eenchege forma\u021biuni statale abia prin secolul 13 al erei noastre (\u00eent\u00e2rzia\u021bi la fel ca \u0219i noi), vorbesc limbi ciudate \u0219i nefamiliare. Noi ne consider\u0103m o insul\u0103 latin\u0103 \u00eentr-o mare slav\u0103. Estonienii vorbesc o limb\u0103 ugro-finic\u0103 \u00eenrudit\u0103 doar cu finlandeza \u0219i maghiara. Letonii \u0219i lituanienii vorbesc limbi baltice, considerate a fi unele dintre cele mai arhaice limbi indo-europene, rude mai apropiate cu sanscrita dec\u00e2t cu engleza. Este un soi de miracol faptul c-au supravie\u021buit, nu toate limbile vorbite \u00een acel col\u021b de lume au ajuns p\u00e2n\u0103 la noi, vezi prusaca veche sau livoniana. Ceva-ceva tot ne deosebe\u0219te \u00eens\u0103. Spre deosebire de rom\u00e2ni, care se consider\u0103 a fi cre\u0219tini \u00eenc\u0103 de pe vremea Sf\u00e2ntului Andrei, popoarele baltice au r\u0103mas p\u0103g\u00e2ne p\u00e2n\u0103 t\u00e2rziu. Intrarea lor \u00een istorie s-a produs prin secolul al 12- lea \u0219i al 13-lea, pe vremea c\u00e2nd Papa de la Roma le-a dat liber cavalerilor germani s\u0103 plece \u00een cruciad\u0103 \u00een nord, s\u0103-i cre\u0219tineze pe ultimii p\u0103g\u00e2ni ai Europei. Teritoriile pe care le-au cucerit \u0219i colonizat le-au denumit dup\u0103 numele du\u0219manilor pe care i-au biruit – pe de o parte Prusia, dup\u0103 tribul baltic al vechilor prusaci, pe de alt\u0103 parte Livonia (aproximativ Letonia + Estonia de ast\u0103zi) dup\u0103 tribul livonienilor. Doar lituanienii le-au \u021binut piept crucia\u021bilor, reu\u0219ind s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eentemeieze un ducat propriu suficient de puternic ca s\u0103 se \u00eempotriveasc\u0103 Ordinului Cavalerilor Teutoni. Lituanienii erau dealtfel \u0219i litvele p\u0103g\u00e2ne din vechile cronici moldovene\u0219ti. P\u00e2n\u0103 la urm\u0103 nu au rezistat nici ei prea mult timp, au fost nevoi\u021bi totu\u0219i s\u0103 se cre\u0219tineze \u0219i s\u0103 se alieze cu regatul Poloniei, alian\u021b\u0103 ce-a devenit cu timpul o adev\u0103rat\u0103 uniune de state, partea avantajat\u0103 fiind Polonia. \u0218i, dup\u0103 p\u0103rerea mea, ar mai fi o asem\u0103nare cu noi, mai ales cu rom\u00e2nii din Ardeal. Letonii \u0219i estonienii au fost p\u00e2n\u0103 la primul r\u0103zboi mondial un fel de cet\u0103\u021beni de categoria a doua \u00een propria lor \u021bar\u0103. La \u00eenceputuri clasa conduc\u0103toare \u00een Livonia era german\u0103 iar dup\u0103 cucerirea \u021barist\u0103 rus\u0103. \u00cen cazul Lituaniei, polonii erau la putere iar apoi tot ru\u0219ii. Elitele baltice, la fel ca \u0219i elitele rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti din Transilvania, au fost asimilate \u00een clasele dominante ale vremii, devenind germani, poloni sau ru\u0219i. Abia dup\u0103 1918 au reu\u0219it \u0219i popoarele baltice s\u0103-\u0219i c\u00e2\u0219tige drepturile \u0219i s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eentemeieze propriile state na\u021bionale. Situa\u021bia nu a durat mult, dup\u0103 al doilea r\u0103zboi mondial cele trei \u021b\u0103ri\u0219oare fiind metamorfozate \u00een Republici Socialiste Sovietice, fericire de care noi am sc\u0103pat. \u00cen zilele noastre st\u0103m \u0219i ei \u0219i noi ag\u0103\u021ba\u021bi de umbrela NATO \u0219i UE tr\u0103g\u00e2nd speran\u021ba c\u0103 la o adic\u0103 o avea cine s\u0103 ne sar\u0103 \u00een ajutor, c\u0103 obstacolele ar fi mai u\u0219or de dep\u0103\u0219it c\u00e2nd ai prieteni puternici. Via\u021ba la marginea Europei este \u00eens\u0103 cam grea. Cele trei \u021b\u0103ri baltice, considerate p\u00e2n\u0103 nu demult tigrii Europei, par a se mole\u0219i. De c\u00e2nd cu r\u0103zboiul din Ucraina cre\u0219terea economic\u0103 s-a redus dramatic iar infla\u021bia a crescut. P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i c\u0103l\u0103tori r\u0103zle\u021bi ca noi, oaspe\u021bi de-o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103, am putut sesiza c\u0103 via\u021ba nu e tocmai roz aici. Un p\u0103h\u0103rel cu vin fiert 5 euro … un pumn de migdale date prin mirodenii 5 euro … P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i am\u00e2natele \u0219i nu tocmai bogatele Pie\u021be de Cr\u0103ciun pot depune m\u0103rturie despre cum stau lucrurile. Una peste alta, mie uneia nu mi-a p\u0103rut r\u0103u c\u0103 m-am dus pe timp de iarn\u0103 taman \u00een \u021a\u0103rile Baltice. Iarna are totu\u0219i un farmec aparte aici. \u00cen plus, am tr\u0103it timp de o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 \u00eentr-o atmosfer\u0103 mult mai tihnit\u0103 dec\u00e2t cea de acas\u0103. O fi fost doar o iluzie, cine \u0219tie ce mocne\u0219te dedesuptul acestei normalit\u0103\u021bi lini\u0219titoare. Sper totu\u0219i ca aparen\u021bele s\u0103 nu fie \u00een\u0219el\u0103toare.   +4 0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":42602,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[929,928,927,688],"tags":[1033],"class_list":["post-42471","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-estonia","category-lituania","category-letonia","category-calatorii","tag-palmares-locuri-tari"],"yoast_head":"\nPie\u021bele de Cr\u0103ciun ale \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice - 🇱🇹 Lituania - Uli\u021barnica<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/pietele-de-craciun-ale-tarilor-baltice\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Pie\u021bele de Cr\u0103ciun ale \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice - 🇱🇹 Lituania - Uli\u021barnica\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dac-ar fi s\u0103 aleg un animal totemic care s\u0103-mi reprezinte preferin\u021bele \u00eentr-ale c\u0103l\u0103toriilor a\u0219 alege sigur unul c\u0103ruia \u00eei place s\u0103 hiberneze iarna, un urs poate, sau un arici sau o marmot\u0103. Ce poate fi mai pl\u0103cut dec\u00e2t s\u0103 stai culcu\u0219it la gura sobei c\u00e2nd afar\u0103 e frig \u0219i ploaie (m\u0103car de-ar mai ninge din c\u00e2nd \u00een c\u00e2nd) iar ziua e prea scurt\u0103 \u0219i nu te \u00eendeamn\u0103 la hoin\u0103rit. \u0218i totu\u0219i …  m-am pricopsit cu dorin\u021ba de-a vedea o \u021bar\u0103 nordic\u0103 pe timp de iarn\u0103 taman la Sankt Petersburg. Am nimerit \u00een acel ora\u0219 la mijlocul verii dar pe o vreme gri-ce\u021bos-mohor\u00e2t\u0103 \u0219i z\u0103u c-a\u0219 fi preferat s\u0103 v\u0103d Neva \u00eenghe\u021bat\u0103 iar acele minunate palate a\u0219ezate \u00eentr-un decor de nea alb-imaculat\u0103. Mi-am propus atunci s\u0103 recidivez. Sankt Petersburg \u00eens\u0103 pare a fi o destina\u021bie inaccesibil\u0103 \u00een vremurile belicoase \u00een care suntem nevoi\u021bi s\u0103 tr\u0103im momentan, a\u0219a c\u0103 mi-am zis c-a venit timpul s\u0103 dau o rait\u0103 prin vecini. \u0218i uit-a\u0219a le-a venit sorocul la vizitat \u0219i \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice. \u00cen plus, \u00een perioada aceasta a anului exist\u0103 \u0219i o alt\u0103 tenta\u021bie suficient de puternic\u0103 care s\u0103 m\u0103 fac\u0103 s\u0103 ies din cas\u0103, t\u00e2rgurile de Cr\u0103ciun. M\u0103 \u0219i imaginam cotrob\u0103ind dup\u0103 juc\u0103rele simpatice prin vitrinele c\u0103su\u021belor acoperite de z\u0103pad\u0103, la umbra unui brad \u00eempodobit, ridicat \u00een mijlocul unor or\u0103\u0219ele cu iz medieval, ron\u021b\u0103ind ceva bun \u0219i sorbind dintr-un vin fiert \u0219i aromat. Am plecat a\u0219adar la sf\u00e2r\u0219it de noiembrie \u00eentr-o excursie organizat\u0103 ce s-a intitulat chiar a\u0219a Pie\u021bele de Cr\u0103ciun ale \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice. A durat o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i ne-a purtat prin Estonia, Letonia \u0219i Lituania, via Var\u0219ovia unde am avut escale \u0219i la plecare \u0219i la \u00eentoarcerea acas\u0103. Principalele obiective din program au fost cele trei capitale baltice, Tallinn, Riga \u0219i Vilnius. Am petrecut o zi \u00eentreag\u0103 \u00een fiecare dintre ele, diminea\u021ba \u00eentr-un tur de vreo trei ceasuri \u00eempreun\u0103 cu un ghid local iar dup\u0103 amiaza de capul nostru, fiecare dup\u0103 inspira\u021bie. Deplas\u0103rile dintr-un ora\u0219 \u00een altul le-am f\u0103cut cu autocarul \u0219i au durat \u0219i ele c\u00e2te o zi \u00eentreag\u0103, nu neaparat datorit\u0103 distan\u021belor pe care le-am avut de parcurs ci pentru c\u0103 am f\u0103cut pauze pentru vizitarea altor puncte de interes aflate pe traseu. Dac\u0103 ar fi s\u0103 compar excursia aceasta cu cele f\u0103cute \u00een destina\u021biile exotice precum China sau Nepal-Buthan a\u0219 putea spune c\u0103 acum am fost \u00eentr-adev\u0103r \u00een vacan\u021b\u0103, nu mi-a ie\u0219it sufletul de-at\u00e2ta alergat ca bezmetica dintr-un loc \u00een altul. Cele trei capitale baltice nu sunt ora\u0219e foarte mari de felul lor iar zona de maxim interes e adunat\u0103 toat\u0103 \u00een buricul t\u00e2rgului, \u00een vechiul burg medieval \u00een jurul c\u0103ruia s-a dezvoltat mai apoi ora\u0219ul modern. Drept urmare nu dau prea mult\u0103 b\u0103taie de cap c\u0103l\u0103torului. P\u0103r\u021bile acestea vechi sunt \u00eentr-o propor\u021bie foarte mare doar pietonale a\u0219a c\u0103 sunt \u0219i mai lini\u0219tite, mai pu\u021bin aglomerate, d\u00e2nd ora\u0219elor un aer oarecum provincial, mai ales pe \u00eenserat c\u00e2nd mai toat\u0103 lumea se retrage pe la casele lor \u0219i las\u0103 str\u0103zile pustii. Mie uneia mi-a pl\u0103cut s\u0103 colind alandala, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103-mi bat capul cu obiectivele de „bifat” \u0219i savur\u00e2nd timpul liber avut la dispozi\u021bie. M-am sim\u021bit aproape ca acas\u0103, locurile \u00eemi p\u0103reau vag familiare, or\u0103\u0219elele acestea medievale fiind surori bune cu cele din Ardeal. Am avut parte de z\u0103pad\u0103 c\u00e2t pentru \u00eentreaga iarn\u0103, am b\u0103ut vin fiert \u0219i-am ron\u021b\u0103it \u0219i bun\u0103t\u0103\u021bi. Doar cu T\u00e2rgurile de Cr\u0103ciun am dat chix, au cam lipsit aproape cu des\u0103v\u00e2r\u0219ire deoarece autorit\u0103\u021bile locale au hot\u0103r\u00e2t s\u0103 am\u00e2ne deschiderea lor cu o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103.  Le-am ratat la musta\u021b\u0103, doar \u00een Lituania am g\u0103sit deschise dou\u0103, \u00een Kaunas \u0219i \u00een Vilnius. Mi s-au p\u0103rut \u00eens\u0103 cam pr\u0103p\u0103dite. Cu ocazia acestei excursii am aflat o gr\u0103mad\u0103 de lucruri interesante despre cele trei \u021b\u0103ri\u0219oare baltice, ce nu sunt tocmai „la mod\u0103” printre doritorii de c\u0103l\u0103torii. De-acum \u00eenainte n-am s\u0103 le mai \u00eencurc capitalele \u0219i n-am s\u0103 le mai plasez aiurea pe hart\u0103, p\u00e2n\u0103 acum nereu\u0219ind s\u0103-mi amintesc niciodat\u0103 care dintre ele se afl\u0103 mai la nord \u0219i care mai la sud. \u0218i tot medit\u00e2nd la soarta lor „istoric\u0103” am ajuns la concluzia c\u0103 ne asem\u0103n\u0103m \u00eentr-o oare\u0219icare m\u0103sur\u0103. La fel ca \u0219i noi, popoarele baltice sunt nevoite s\u0103 tr\u0103iasc\u0103 la hotarele unor imperii \u0219i s\u0103 \u00eendure toate dezavantajele ce decurg din acest fapt – vezi frica noastr\u0103 comun\u0103 de ru\u0219i. \u0218i ele, poate \u00eentr-o m\u0103sur\u0103 mai mare dec\u00e2t noi, ar putea fi considerate o „enigm\u0103 \u0219i un miracol istoric”. Urma\u0219ele unor popula\u021bii ce \u00eencepeau s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eenchege forma\u021biuni statale abia prin secolul 13 al erei noastre (\u00eent\u00e2rzia\u021bi la fel ca \u0219i noi), vorbesc limbi ciudate \u0219i nefamiliare. Noi ne consider\u0103m o insul\u0103 latin\u0103 \u00eentr-o mare slav\u0103. Estonienii vorbesc o limb\u0103 ugro-finic\u0103 \u00eenrudit\u0103 doar cu finlandeza \u0219i maghiara. Letonii \u0219i lituanienii vorbesc limbi baltice, considerate a fi unele dintre cele mai arhaice limbi indo-europene, rude mai apropiate cu sanscrita dec\u00e2t cu engleza. Este un soi de miracol faptul c-au supravie\u021buit, nu toate limbile vorbite \u00een acel col\u021b de lume au ajuns p\u00e2n\u0103 la noi, vezi prusaca veche sau livoniana. Ceva-ceva tot ne deosebe\u0219te \u00eens\u0103. Spre deosebire de rom\u00e2ni, care se consider\u0103 a fi cre\u0219tini \u00eenc\u0103 de pe vremea Sf\u00e2ntului Andrei, popoarele baltice au r\u0103mas p\u0103g\u00e2ne p\u00e2n\u0103 t\u00e2rziu. Intrarea lor \u00een istorie s-a produs prin secolul al 12- lea \u0219i al 13-lea, pe vremea c\u00e2nd Papa de la Roma le-a dat liber cavalerilor germani s\u0103 plece \u00een cruciad\u0103 \u00een nord, s\u0103-i cre\u0219tineze pe ultimii p\u0103g\u00e2ni ai Europei. Teritoriile pe care le-au cucerit \u0219i colonizat le-au denumit dup\u0103 numele du\u0219manilor pe care i-au biruit – pe de o parte Prusia, dup\u0103 tribul baltic al vechilor prusaci, pe de alt\u0103 parte Livonia (aproximativ Letonia + Estonia de ast\u0103zi) dup\u0103 tribul livonienilor. Doar lituanienii le-au \u021binut piept crucia\u021bilor, reu\u0219ind s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eentemeieze un ducat propriu suficient de puternic ca s\u0103 se \u00eempotriveasc\u0103 Ordinului Cavalerilor Teutoni. Lituanienii erau dealtfel \u0219i litvele p\u0103g\u00e2ne din vechile cronici moldovene\u0219ti. P\u00e2n\u0103 la urm\u0103 nu au rezistat nici ei prea mult timp, au fost nevoi\u021bi totu\u0219i s\u0103 se cre\u0219tineze \u0219i s\u0103 se alieze cu regatul Poloniei, alian\u021b\u0103 ce-a devenit cu timpul o adev\u0103rat\u0103 uniune de state, partea avantajat\u0103 fiind Polonia. \u0218i, dup\u0103 p\u0103rerea mea, ar mai fi o asem\u0103nare cu noi, mai ales cu rom\u00e2nii din Ardeal. Letonii \u0219i estonienii au fost p\u00e2n\u0103 la primul r\u0103zboi mondial un fel de cet\u0103\u021beni de categoria a doua \u00een propria lor \u021bar\u0103. La \u00eenceputuri clasa conduc\u0103toare \u00een Livonia era german\u0103 iar dup\u0103 cucerirea \u021barist\u0103 rus\u0103. \u00cen cazul Lituaniei, polonii erau la putere iar apoi tot ru\u0219ii. Elitele baltice, la fel ca \u0219i elitele rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti din Transilvania, au fost asimilate \u00een clasele dominante ale vremii, devenind germani, poloni sau ru\u0219i. Abia dup\u0103 1918 au reu\u0219it \u0219i popoarele baltice s\u0103-\u0219i c\u00e2\u0219tige drepturile \u0219i s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eentemeieze propriile state na\u021bionale. Situa\u021bia nu a durat mult, dup\u0103 al doilea r\u0103zboi mondial cele trei \u021b\u0103ri\u0219oare fiind metamorfozate \u00een Republici Socialiste Sovietice, fericire de care noi am sc\u0103pat. \u00cen zilele noastre st\u0103m \u0219i ei \u0219i noi ag\u0103\u021ba\u021bi de umbrela NATO \u0219i UE tr\u0103g\u00e2nd speran\u021ba c\u0103 la o adic\u0103 o avea cine s\u0103 ne sar\u0103 \u00een ajutor, c\u0103 obstacolele ar fi mai u\u0219or de dep\u0103\u0219it c\u00e2nd ai prieteni puternici. Via\u021ba la marginea Europei este \u00eens\u0103 cam grea. Cele trei \u021b\u0103ri baltice, considerate p\u00e2n\u0103 nu demult tigrii Europei, par a se mole\u0219i. De c\u00e2nd cu r\u0103zboiul din Ucraina cre\u0219terea economic\u0103 s-a redus dramatic iar infla\u021bia a crescut. P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i c\u0103l\u0103tori r\u0103zle\u021bi ca noi, oaspe\u021bi de-o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103, am putut sesiza c\u0103 via\u021ba nu e tocmai roz aici. Un p\u0103h\u0103rel cu vin fiert 5 euro … un pumn de migdale date prin mirodenii 5 euro … P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i am\u00e2natele \u0219i nu tocmai bogatele Pie\u021be de Cr\u0103ciun pot depune m\u0103rturie despre cum stau lucrurile. Una peste alta, mie uneia nu mi-a p\u0103rut r\u0103u c\u0103 m-am dus pe timp de iarn\u0103 taman \u00een \u021a\u0103rile Baltice. Iarna are totu\u0219i un farmec aparte aici. \u00cen plus, am tr\u0103it timp de o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 \u00eentr-o atmosfer\u0103 mult mai tihnit\u0103 dec\u00e2t cea de acas\u0103. O fi fost doar o iluzie, cine \u0219tie ce mocne\u0219te dedesuptul acestei normalit\u0103\u021bi lini\u0219titoare. Sper totu\u0219i ca aparen\u021bele s\u0103 nu fie \u00een\u0219el\u0103toare.   +4 0\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/pietele-de-craciun-ale-tarilor-baltice\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Uli\u021barnica\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/Ulitarnica\/494942813906889\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/Ulitarnica\/494942813906889\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2023-12-14T13:50:45+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2026-07-11T09:26:37+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/2023-11-30-0947-coperta-1.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"600\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"450\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"AncaHM\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@MihaelaHerbei\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@MihaelaHerbei\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Scris de\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"AncaHM\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Timp estimat pentru citire\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"12 minute\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.ulitarnica.ro\\\/wp\\\/pietele-de-craciun-ale-tarilor-baltice\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.ulitarnica.ro\\\/wp\\\/pietele-de-craciun-ale-tarilor-baltice\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"AncaHM\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.ulitarnica.ro\\\/wp\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/1de2fe90232dbef1295aeac37800a007\"},\"headline\":\"Pie\u021bele de Cr\u0103ciun ale \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice Jurnal baltic - 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Ce poate fi mai pl\u0103cut dec\u00e2t s\u0103 stai culcu\u0219it la gura sobei c\u00e2nd afar\u0103 e frig \u0219i ploaie (m\u0103car de-ar mai ninge din c\u00e2nd \u00een c\u00e2nd) iar ziua e prea scurt\u0103 \u0219i nu te \u00eendeamn\u0103 la hoin\u0103rit. \u0218i totu\u0219i …  m-am pricopsit cu dorin\u021ba de-a vedea o \u021bar\u0103 nordic\u0103 pe timp de iarn\u0103 taman la Sankt Petersburg. Am nimerit \u00een acel ora\u0219 la mijlocul verii dar pe o vreme gri-ce\u021bos-mohor\u00e2t\u0103 \u0219i z\u0103u c-a\u0219 fi preferat s\u0103 v\u0103d Neva \u00eenghe\u021bat\u0103 iar acele minunate palate a\u0219ezate \u00eentr-un decor de nea alb-imaculat\u0103. Mi-am propus atunci s\u0103 recidivez. Sankt Petersburg \u00eens\u0103 pare a fi o destina\u021bie inaccesibil\u0103 \u00een vremurile belicoase \u00een care suntem nevoi\u021bi s\u0103 tr\u0103im momentan, a\u0219a c\u0103 mi-am zis c-a venit timpul s\u0103 dau o rait\u0103 prin vecini. \u0218i uit-a\u0219a le-a venit sorocul la vizitat \u0219i \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice. \u00cen plus, \u00een perioada aceasta a anului exist\u0103 \u0219i o alt\u0103 tenta\u021bie suficient de puternic\u0103 care s\u0103 m\u0103 fac\u0103 s\u0103 ies din cas\u0103, t\u00e2rgurile de Cr\u0103ciun. M\u0103 \u0219i imaginam cotrob\u0103ind dup\u0103 juc\u0103rele simpatice prin vitrinele c\u0103su\u021belor acoperite de z\u0103pad\u0103, la umbra unui brad \u00eempodobit, ridicat \u00een mijlocul unor or\u0103\u0219ele cu iz medieval, ron\u021b\u0103ind ceva bun \u0219i sorbind dintr-un vin fiert \u0219i aromat. Am plecat a\u0219adar la sf\u00e2r\u0219it de noiembrie \u00eentr-o excursie organizat\u0103 ce s-a intitulat chiar a\u0219a Pie\u021bele de Cr\u0103ciun ale \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice. A durat o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i ne-a purtat prin Estonia, Letonia \u0219i Lituania, via Var\u0219ovia unde am avut escale \u0219i la plecare \u0219i la \u00eentoarcerea acas\u0103. Principalele obiective din program au fost cele trei capitale baltice, Tallinn, Riga \u0219i Vilnius. Am petrecut o zi \u00eentreag\u0103 \u00een fiecare dintre ele, diminea\u021ba \u00eentr-un tur de vreo trei ceasuri \u00eempreun\u0103 cu un ghid local iar dup\u0103 amiaza de capul nostru, fiecare dup\u0103 inspira\u021bie. Deplas\u0103rile dintr-un ora\u0219 \u00een altul le-am f\u0103cut cu autocarul \u0219i au durat \u0219i ele c\u00e2te o zi \u00eentreag\u0103, nu neaparat datorit\u0103 distan\u021belor pe care le-am avut de parcurs ci pentru c\u0103 am f\u0103cut pauze pentru vizitarea altor puncte de interes aflate pe traseu. Dac\u0103 ar fi s\u0103 compar excursia aceasta cu cele f\u0103cute \u00een destina\u021biile exotice precum China sau Nepal-Buthan a\u0219 putea spune c\u0103 acum am fost \u00eentr-adev\u0103r \u00een vacan\u021b\u0103, nu mi-a ie\u0219it sufletul de-at\u00e2ta alergat ca bezmetica dintr-un loc \u00een altul. Cele trei capitale baltice nu sunt ora\u0219e foarte mari de felul lor iar zona de maxim interes e adunat\u0103 toat\u0103 \u00een buricul t\u00e2rgului, \u00een vechiul burg medieval \u00een jurul c\u0103ruia s-a dezvoltat mai apoi ora\u0219ul modern. Drept urmare nu dau prea mult\u0103 b\u0103taie de cap c\u0103l\u0103torului. P\u0103r\u021bile acestea vechi sunt \u00eentr-o propor\u021bie foarte mare doar pietonale a\u0219a c\u0103 sunt \u0219i mai lini\u0219tite, mai pu\u021bin aglomerate, d\u00e2nd ora\u0219elor un aer oarecum provincial, mai ales pe \u00eenserat c\u00e2nd mai toat\u0103 lumea se retrage pe la casele lor \u0219i las\u0103 str\u0103zile pustii. Mie uneia mi-a pl\u0103cut s\u0103 colind alandala, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103-mi bat capul cu obiectivele de „bifat” \u0219i savur\u00e2nd timpul liber avut la dispozi\u021bie. M-am sim\u021bit aproape ca acas\u0103, locurile \u00eemi p\u0103reau vag familiare, or\u0103\u0219elele acestea medievale fiind surori bune cu cele din Ardeal. Am avut parte de z\u0103pad\u0103 c\u00e2t pentru \u00eentreaga iarn\u0103, am b\u0103ut vin fiert \u0219i-am ron\u021b\u0103it \u0219i bun\u0103t\u0103\u021bi. Doar cu T\u00e2rgurile de Cr\u0103ciun am dat chix, au cam lipsit aproape cu des\u0103v\u00e2r\u0219ire deoarece autorit\u0103\u021bile locale au hot\u0103r\u00e2t s\u0103 am\u00e2ne deschiderea lor cu o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103.  Le-am ratat la musta\u021b\u0103, doar \u00een Lituania am g\u0103sit deschise dou\u0103, \u00een Kaunas \u0219i \u00een Vilnius. Mi s-au p\u0103rut \u00eens\u0103 cam pr\u0103p\u0103dite. Cu ocazia acestei excursii am aflat o gr\u0103mad\u0103 de lucruri interesante despre cele trei \u021b\u0103ri\u0219oare baltice, ce nu sunt tocmai „la mod\u0103” printre doritorii de c\u0103l\u0103torii. De-acum \u00eenainte n-am s\u0103 le mai \u00eencurc capitalele \u0219i n-am s\u0103 le mai plasez aiurea pe hart\u0103, p\u00e2n\u0103 acum nereu\u0219ind s\u0103-mi amintesc niciodat\u0103 care dintre ele se afl\u0103 mai la nord \u0219i care mai la sud. \u0218i tot medit\u00e2nd la soarta lor „istoric\u0103” am ajuns la concluzia c\u0103 ne asem\u0103n\u0103m \u00eentr-o oare\u0219icare m\u0103sur\u0103. La fel ca \u0219i noi, popoarele baltice sunt nevoite s\u0103 tr\u0103iasc\u0103 la hotarele unor imperii \u0219i s\u0103 \u00eendure toate dezavantajele ce decurg din acest fapt – vezi frica noastr\u0103 comun\u0103 de ru\u0219i. \u0218i ele, poate \u00eentr-o m\u0103sur\u0103 mai mare dec\u00e2t noi, ar putea fi considerate o „enigm\u0103 \u0219i un miracol istoric”. Urma\u0219ele unor popula\u021bii ce \u00eencepeau s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eenchege forma\u021biuni statale abia prin secolul 13 al erei noastre (\u00eent\u00e2rzia\u021bi la fel ca \u0219i noi), vorbesc limbi ciudate \u0219i nefamiliare. Noi ne consider\u0103m o insul\u0103 latin\u0103 \u00eentr-o mare slav\u0103. Estonienii vorbesc o limb\u0103 ugro-finic\u0103 \u00eenrudit\u0103 doar cu finlandeza \u0219i maghiara. Letonii \u0219i lituanienii vorbesc limbi baltice, considerate a fi unele dintre cele mai arhaice limbi indo-europene, rude mai apropiate cu sanscrita dec\u00e2t cu engleza. Este un soi de miracol faptul c-au supravie\u021buit, nu toate limbile vorbite \u00een acel col\u021b de lume au ajuns p\u00e2n\u0103 la noi, vezi prusaca veche sau livoniana. Ceva-ceva tot ne deosebe\u0219te \u00eens\u0103. Spre deosebire de rom\u00e2ni, care se consider\u0103 a fi cre\u0219tini \u00eenc\u0103 de pe vremea Sf\u00e2ntului Andrei, popoarele baltice au r\u0103mas p\u0103g\u00e2ne p\u00e2n\u0103 t\u00e2rziu. Intrarea lor \u00een istorie s-a produs prin secolul al 12- lea \u0219i al 13-lea, pe vremea c\u00e2nd Papa de la Roma le-a dat liber cavalerilor germani s\u0103 plece \u00een cruciad\u0103 \u00een nord, s\u0103-i cre\u0219tineze pe ultimii p\u0103g\u00e2ni ai Europei. Teritoriile pe care le-au cucerit \u0219i colonizat le-au denumit dup\u0103 numele du\u0219manilor pe care i-au biruit – pe de o parte Prusia, dup\u0103 tribul baltic al vechilor prusaci, pe de alt\u0103 parte Livonia (aproximativ Letonia + Estonia de ast\u0103zi) dup\u0103 tribul livonienilor. Doar lituanienii le-au \u021binut piept crucia\u021bilor, reu\u0219ind s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eentemeieze un ducat propriu suficient de puternic ca s\u0103 se \u00eempotriveasc\u0103 Ordinului Cavalerilor Teutoni. Lituanienii erau dealtfel \u0219i litvele p\u0103g\u00e2ne din vechile cronici moldovene\u0219ti. P\u00e2n\u0103 la urm\u0103 nu au rezistat nici ei prea mult timp, au fost nevoi\u021bi totu\u0219i s\u0103 se cre\u0219tineze \u0219i s\u0103 se alieze cu regatul Poloniei, alian\u021b\u0103 ce-a devenit cu timpul o adev\u0103rat\u0103 uniune de state, partea avantajat\u0103 fiind Polonia. \u0218i, dup\u0103 p\u0103rerea mea, ar mai fi o asem\u0103nare cu noi, mai ales cu rom\u00e2nii din Ardeal. Letonii \u0219i estonienii au fost p\u00e2n\u0103 la primul r\u0103zboi mondial un fel de cet\u0103\u021beni de categoria a doua \u00een propria lor \u021bar\u0103. La \u00eenceputuri clasa conduc\u0103toare \u00een Livonia era german\u0103 iar dup\u0103 cucerirea \u021barist\u0103 rus\u0103. \u00cen cazul Lituaniei, polonii erau la putere iar apoi tot ru\u0219ii. Elitele baltice, la fel ca \u0219i elitele rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti din Transilvania, au fost asimilate \u00een clasele dominante ale vremii, devenind germani, poloni sau ru\u0219i. Abia dup\u0103 1918 au reu\u0219it \u0219i popoarele baltice s\u0103-\u0219i c\u00e2\u0219tige drepturile \u0219i s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eentemeieze propriile state na\u021bionale. Situa\u021bia nu a durat mult, dup\u0103 al doilea r\u0103zboi mondial cele trei \u021b\u0103ri\u0219oare fiind metamorfozate \u00een Republici Socialiste Sovietice, fericire de care noi am sc\u0103pat. \u00cen zilele noastre st\u0103m \u0219i ei \u0219i noi ag\u0103\u021ba\u021bi de umbrela NATO \u0219i UE tr\u0103g\u00e2nd speran\u021ba c\u0103 la o adic\u0103 o avea cine s\u0103 ne sar\u0103 \u00een ajutor, c\u0103 obstacolele ar fi mai u\u0219or de dep\u0103\u0219it c\u00e2nd ai prieteni puternici. Via\u021ba la marginea Europei este \u00eens\u0103 cam grea. Cele trei \u021b\u0103ri baltice, considerate p\u00e2n\u0103 nu demult tigrii Europei, par a se mole\u0219i. De c\u00e2nd cu r\u0103zboiul din Ucraina cre\u0219terea economic\u0103 s-a redus dramatic iar infla\u021bia a crescut. P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i c\u0103l\u0103tori r\u0103zle\u021bi ca noi, oaspe\u021bi de-o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103, am putut sesiza c\u0103 via\u021ba nu e tocmai roz aici. Un p\u0103h\u0103rel cu vin fiert 5 euro … un pumn de migdale date prin mirodenii 5 euro … P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i am\u00e2natele \u0219i nu tocmai bogatele Pie\u021be de Cr\u0103ciun pot depune m\u0103rturie despre cum stau lucrurile. Una peste alta, mie uneia nu mi-a p\u0103rut r\u0103u c\u0103 m-am dus pe timp de iarn\u0103 taman \u00een \u021a\u0103rile Baltice. Iarna are totu\u0219i un farmec aparte aici. \u00cen plus, am tr\u0103it timp de o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 \u00eentr-o atmosfer\u0103 mult mai tihnit\u0103 dec\u00e2t cea de acas\u0103. O fi fost doar o iluzie, cine \u0219tie ce mocne\u0219te dedesuptul acestei normalit\u0103\u021bi lini\u0219titoare. Sper totu\u0219i ca aparen\u021bele s\u0103 nu fie \u00een\u0219el\u0103toare.   +4 0","og_url":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/pietele-de-craciun-ale-tarilor-baltice\/","og_site_name":"Uli\u021barnica","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/Ulitarnica\/494942813906889","article_author":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/Ulitarnica\/494942813906889","article_published_time":"2023-12-14T13:50:45+00:00","article_modified_time":"2026-07-11T09:26:37+00:00","og_image":[{"width":600,"height":450,"url":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/2023-11-30-0947-coperta-1.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"AncaHM","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_creator":"@MihaelaHerbei","twitter_site":"@MihaelaHerbei","twitter_misc":{"Scris de":"AncaHM","Timp estimat pentru citire":"12 minute"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/pietele-de-craciun-ale-tarilor-baltice\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/pietele-de-craciun-ale-tarilor-baltice\/"},"author":{"name":"AncaHM","@id":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/#\/schema\/person\/1de2fe90232dbef1295aeac37800a007"},"headline":"Pie\u021bele de Cr\u0103ciun ale \u021a\u0103rilor Baltice Jurnal baltic - 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