{"id":36267,"date":"2021-07-22T20:36:55","date_gmt":"2021-07-22T18:36:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/?p=36267"},"modified":"2026-07-12T08:50:35","modified_gmt":"2026-07-12T06:50:35","slug":"nairobi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/nairobi\/","title":{"rendered":"Nairobi <\/br> Jurnal kenian - capitolul 1<\/span>"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Am f\u0103cut cuno\u0219tin\u021b\u0103 cu ora\u0219ul Naibobi \u00eentr-o diminea\u021b\u0103, dup\u0103 vreo 9 ore de zbor de noapte pe ruta Bucure\u0219ti-Doha-Nairobi. Am ajuns cam n\u0103uc\u0103 la \u00eent\u00e2lnire. Formalit\u0103\u021bile de intrare \u00een \u021bar\u0103 n-au durat prea mult a\u0219a c\u0103 cei de la African Dunes<\/em> s-au g\u00e2ndit s\u0103 ne ocupe timpul de a\u0219teptare p\u00e2n\u0103 la check-in-ul de la hotel cu un mic tur de ora\u0219. Oricum, \u00een prima zi nu aveam planificat nimic, doar acomodare \u0219i somn de voie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nairobi ne-a primit, la propriu, cu r\u0103ceal\u0103. De la cele peste 30 de grade din Bucure\u0219ti ne-am trezit deodat\u0103 pe la vreo 15-20. De\u0219i foarte aproape de Ecuator ora\u0219ul e situat la aproximativ 1800m altitudine iar luna iulie este una dintre cele mai r\u0103coroase din an. G\u00e2ndul mi-a zburat la hainele groase r\u0103mase acas\u0103 \u0219i la cele sub\u021birele aflate \u00een valiz\u0103. Noroc c-am \u00eengesuit \u00een bagaj, \u00een ultimul moment, un polartec \u0219i o jachet\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un tur de ora\u0219<\/em><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Prima impresie n-a fost tocmai favorabil\u0103. O bil\u0103 neagr\u0103 a fost acordat\u0103 pentru interdic\u021bia ne-a face fotografii dup\u0103 bunul plac. Ni s-a atras aten\u021bia c\u0103 nu avem voie s\u0103 facem poze nici unei cl\u0103diri guvernamentale \u0219i, doamne fere\u0219te, nici unui poli\u021bist. Doar dac\u0103 aveam de g\u00e2nd s\u0103 facem cuno\u0219tin\u021b\u0103 cu vreo \u00eenchisoare kenian\u0103. A doua bil\u0103 neagr\u0103 a primit-o din pricina nenum\u0103ratelor \u0219antiere deschise de chinezii ce construiesc drumuri \u0219i o autostrad\u0103. Tot ora\u0219ul era \u00eentors cu fundul \u00een sus. F\u0103r\u0103 \u0219antierele astea capitala Kenyei n-ar fi chiar ur\u00e2t\u0103. Nairobi este unul dintre cele mai importante centre economice \u0219i financiare ale Africii \u0219i \u00eencearc\u0103 s\u0103-\u0219i men\u021bin\u0103 rangul.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am cobor\u00e2t din ma\u0219in\u0103 \u00een dou\u0103 locuri doar. Prima data \u00eentr-un punct de belvedere situat pe buza unui deal, ce oferea o priveli\u0219te spre un parc \u0219i spre downtown. Din acel punct ora\u0219ul at\u0103ta chiar spectaculos. A doua oprire am f\u0103cut-o \u00eentr-o pia\u021b\u0103 din amintitul downtown, unde era ridicat\u0103 o statuie a lui Jomo Kenyatta, primul pre\u0219edinte al Republicii Kenya de dup\u0103 c\u00e2\u0219tigarea independen\u021bei \u00een 1963.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Din p\u0103cate nu ne-am plimbat \u00een voie pe str\u0103zi, s\u0103 sim\u021bim pulsul ora\u0219ului, pe motiv de nesiguran\u021b\u0103 a c\u0103l\u0103torului. Numele de alint al lui Nairobi e Nairobbery din pricina multor furti\u0219aguri ce au loc aici.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Boda boda – Taximetre pe dou\u0103 ro\u021bi – foarte populare \u00een Kenya<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Kenyatta International Conference Centre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Jomo Kenyatta – primul pre\u0219edinte al Republicii Kenya<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Statuia lui Jomo Kenyatta din fa\u021ba Palatului de Justi\u021bie<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Prim\u0103ria din Nairobi \u0219i o biseric\u0103 catolic\u0103<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Kibera – poate cea mai mare mahala\/slum a Africii – ora\u0219ul s\u0103racilor – pe asta am v\u0103zut-o doar din goana ma\u0219inii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Giraffe Centre<\/em><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Pentru a nu considera prima zi \u00een Kenya total pierdut\u0103, dup\u0103 ce-am terminat turul de ora\u0219 am cerut \u00een unanimitate s\u0103 fim du\u0219i la girafe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Giraffe Center e un loc\u0219or unde po\u021bi vedea de aproape girafele din subspecia Rothschild \u0219i eventual s\u0103 le dai ni\u0219te bobi\u021be cu m\u00e2na ta. Centrul a fost creat de un  Fond african pentru via\u021ba s\u0103lbatic\u0103 aflat\u0103 pe cale de dispari\u021bie, o organiza\u021bie non-profit din Kenya. Scopul ei declarat este familiarizarea tineretul kenian studios cu via\u021ba animalelor s\u0103lbatice din \u021bara lor \u0219i oferirea tuturor vizitatorilor unei unice ocazii de-a intra \u00een contact direct \u0219i pa\u0219nic cu o giraf\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Era mare \u00eenghesuial\u0103 la hr\u0103nit girafe, abia am apucat s\u0103 fac vreo dou\u0103 poze. Nu se prea l\u0103sau sc\u0103rpinate, doar \u00eentindeau o limb\u0103 c\u00e2t se poate de lung\u0103 pentru a apuca delicatesele din jum\u0103t\u0103\u021bile de nuc\u0103 de cocos ce serveau drept farfurii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dup\u0103 ce-am terminat aceast\u0103 vizit\u0103 ne-am prezentat la hotel. Eu una n-am mai avut putere s\u0103 fac nimic. Am c\u0103zut bolovan cu capul \u00een pern\u0103 \u0219i-am dormit p\u00e2n\u0103 a doua zi diminea\u021ba.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Karen Blixen Museum<\/strong><\/em><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Cu ora\u0219ul Nairobi ne-am mai ciocnit de dou\u0103 ori. A doua rund\u0103 am avut-o la \u00eentoarcerea din Maasai Mara iar a treia, la sf\u00e2r\u0219it de tot, \u00eenainte de-a lua avionul spre cas\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen timpul rundei cu num\u0103rul doi am avut \u00een program o vizit\u0103 la Muzeul Karen Blixen. Muzeul acesta se afl\u0103 la poalele dealului Ngong \u0219i este amenajat \u00een casa construit\u0103 \u00een mijlocul fermei ce-a apar\u021binut odinioar\u0103 scriitoarei daneze Karen Blixen, autoarea romanului autobiografic Out of Africa, \u0219i so\u021bului s\u0103u suedez, baronul Bror von Blixen Fincke. E cam departe de centrul ora\u0219ului, la vreo 10 km, dar merit\u0103 vizitat\u0103 pentru a mirosi un pic din atmosfera boem\u0103 \u0219i decadent\u0103 a celor din Happy Valley-ul interbelic. Casa a devenit celebr\u0103 mai ales dup\u0103 ecranizarea c\u0103r\u021bii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nu tr\u0103iau chiar r\u0103u boierii de\u021bin\u0103tori de planta\u021bii \u00een Kenya. Mi-a pl\u0103cut con\u0103celul dar mai mult mi-a pl\u0103cut parcul dendrologic ce-l \u00eenconjura. \u0218i mi-a mai pl\u0103cut familia de hirac\u0219i, marmotele acelea ce sunt cele mai apropiate rude ale elefan\u021bilor. Ne-au a\u0219teptat coco\u021bate pe o ma\u0219in\u0103 de prelucrat cafea, scoas\u0103 din uz de foarte mult\u0103 vreme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Familionul de hirac\u0219i<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n
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Cam at\u00e2t despre Nairobi. Dac\u0103 ar fi fost dup\u0103 mine a\u0219 fi \u00eenghesuit toate vizitele acestea \u00eentr-o singur\u0103 zi \u0219i a\u0219 fi stat mai mult pe coclauri, \u00een safari, \u00een c\u0103utare de animale s\u0103lbatice. Dar cel mai probabil nu era posibil, nu \u0219tiu \u00een ce m\u0103sur\u0103 se putea ajunge din Maasai Mara p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een Tsavo, ocolind capitala. Ghizii no\u0219tri au \u0219tiut cum e mai bine.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Am f\u0103cut cuno\u0219tin\u021b\u0103 cu ora\u0219ul Naibobi \u00eentr-o diminea\u021b\u0103, dup\u0103 vreo 9 ore de zbor de noapte pe ruta Bucure\u0219ti-Doha-Nairobi. Am ajuns cam n\u0103uc\u0103 la \u00eent\u00e2lnire. Formalit\u0103\u021bile de intrare \u00een \u021bar\u0103 n-au durat prea mult a\u0219a c\u0103 cei de la African Dunes s-au g\u00e2ndit s\u0103 ne ocupe timpul de a\u0219teptare p\u00e2n\u0103 la check-in-ul de la hotel cu un mic tur de ora\u0219. Oricum, \u00een prima zi nu aveam planificat nimic, doar acomodare \u0219i somn de voie. Nairobi ne-a primit, la propriu, cu r\u0103ceal\u0103. De la cele peste 30 de grade din Bucure\u0219ti ne-am trezit deodat\u0103 pe la vreo 15-20. De\u0219i foarte aproape de Ecuator ora\u0219ul e situat la aproximativ 1800m altitudine iar luna iulie este una dintre cele mai r\u0103coroase din an. G\u00e2ndul mi-a zburat la hainele groase r\u0103mase acas\u0103 \u0219i la cele sub\u021birele aflate \u00een valiz\u0103. Noroc c-am \u00eengesuit \u00een bagaj, \u00een ultimul moment, un polartec \u0219i o jachet\u0103. Un tur de ora\u0219 Prima impresie n-a fost tocmai favorabil\u0103. O bil\u0103 neagr\u0103 a fost acordat\u0103 pentru interdic\u021bia ne-a face fotografii dup\u0103 bunul plac. Ni s-a atras aten\u021bia c\u0103 nu avem voie s\u0103 facem poze nici unei cl\u0103diri guvernamentale \u0219i, doamne fere\u0219te, nici unui poli\u021bist. Doar dac\u0103 aveam de g\u00e2nd s\u0103 facem cuno\u0219tin\u021b\u0103 cu vreo \u00eenchisoare kenian\u0103. A doua bil\u0103 neagr\u0103 a primit-o din pricina nenum\u0103ratelor \u0219antiere deschise de chinezii ce construiesc drumuri \u0219i o autostrad\u0103. Tot ora\u0219ul era \u00eentors cu fundul \u00een sus. F\u0103r\u0103 \u0219antierele astea capitala Kenyei n-ar fi chiar ur\u00e2t\u0103. Nairobi este unul dintre cele mai importante centre economice \u0219i financiare ale Africii \u0219i \u00eencearc\u0103 s\u0103-\u0219i men\u021bin\u0103 rangul. Am cobor\u00e2t din ma\u0219in\u0103 \u00een dou\u0103 locuri doar. Prima data \u00eentr-un punct de belvedere situat pe buza unui deal, ce oferea o priveli\u0219te spre un parc \u0219i spre downtown. Din acel punct ora\u0219ul at\u0103ta chiar spectaculos. A doua oprire am f\u0103cut-o \u00eentr-o pia\u021b\u0103 din amintitul downtown, unde era ridicat\u0103 o statuie a lui Jomo Kenyatta, primul pre\u0219edinte al Republicii Kenya de dup\u0103 c\u00e2\u0219tigarea independen\u021bei \u00een 1963. Din p\u0103cate nu ne-am plimbat \u00een voie pe str\u0103zi, s\u0103 sim\u021bim pulsul ora\u0219ului, pe motiv de nesiguran\u021b\u0103 a c\u0103l\u0103torului. Numele de alint al lui Nairobi e Nairobbery din pricina multor furti\u0219aguri ce au loc aici. Giraffe Centre Pentru a nu considera prima zi \u00een Kenya total pierdut\u0103, dup\u0103 ce-am terminat turul de ora\u0219 am cerut \u00een unanimitate s\u0103 fim du\u0219i la girafe. Giraffe Center e un loc\u0219or unde po\u021bi vedea de aproape girafele din subspecia Rothschild \u0219i eventual s\u0103 le dai ni\u0219te bobi\u021be cu m\u00e2na ta. Centrul a fost creat de un  Fond african pentru via\u021ba s\u0103lbatic\u0103 aflat\u0103 pe cale de dispari\u021bie, o organiza\u021bie non-profit din Kenya. Scopul ei declarat este familiarizarea tineretul kenian studios cu via\u021ba animalelor s\u0103lbatice din \u021bara lor \u0219i oferirea tuturor vizitatorilor unei unice ocazii de-a intra \u00een contact direct \u0219i pa\u0219nic cu o giraf\u0103. Era mare \u00eenghesuial\u0103 la hr\u0103nit girafe, abia am apucat s\u0103 fac vreo dou\u0103 poze. Nu se prea l\u0103sau sc\u0103rpinate, doar \u00eentindeau o limb\u0103 c\u00e2t se poate de lung\u0103 pentru a apuca delicatesele din jum\u0103t\u0103\u021bile de nuc\u0103 de cocos ce serveau drept farfurii. Dup\u0103 ce-am terminat aceast\u0103 vizit\u0103 ne-am prezentat la hotel. Eu una n-am mai avut putere s\u0103 fac nimic. Am c\u0103zut bolovan cu capul \u00een pern\u0103 \u0219i-am dormit p\u00e2n\u0103 a doua zi diminea\u021ba. Karen Blixen Museum Cu ora\u0219ul Nairobi ne-am mai ciocnit de dou\u0103 ori. A doua rund\u0103 am avut-o la \u00eentoarcerea din Maasai Mara iar a treia, la sf\u00e2r\u0219it de tot, \u00eenainte de-a lua avionul spre cas\u0103. \u00cen timpul rundei cu num\u0103rul doi am avut \u00een program o vizit\u0103 la Muzeul Karen Blixen. Muzeul acesta se afl\u0103 la poalele dealului Ngong \u0219i este amenajat \u00een casa construit\u0103 \u00een mijlocul fermei ce-a apar\u021binut odinioar\u0103 scriitoarei daneze Karen Blixen, autoarea romanului autobiografic Out of Africa, \u0219i so\u021bului s\u0103u suedez, baronul Bror von Blixen Fincke. E cam departe de centrul ora\u0219ului, la vreo 10 km, dar merit\u0103 vizitat\u0103 pentru a mirosi un pic din atmosfera boem\u0103 \u0219i decadent\u0103 a celor din Happy Valley-ul interbelic. Casa a devenit celebr\u0103 mai ales dup\u0103 ecranizarea c\u0103r\u021bii. Nu tr\u0103iau chiar r\u0103u boierii de\u021bin\u0103tori de planta\u021bii \u00een Kenya. Mi-a pl\u0103cut con\u0103celul dar mai mult mi-a pl\u0103cut parcul dendrologic ce-l \u00eenconjura. \u0218i mi-a mai pl\u0103cut familia de hirac\u0219i, marmotele acelea ce sunt cele mai apropiate rude ale elefan\u021bilor. Ne-au a\u0219teptat coco\u021bate pe o ma\u0219in\u0103 de prelucrat cafea, scoas\u0103 din uz de foarte mult\u0103 vreme. Cam at\u00e2t despre Nairobi. Dac\u0103 ar fi fost dup\u0103 mine a\u0219 fi \u00eenghesuit toate vizitele acestea \u00eentr-o singur\u0103 zi \u0219i a\u0219 fi stat mai mult pe coclauri, \u00een safari, \u00een c\u0103utare de animale s\u0103lbatice. Dar cel mai probabil nu era posibil, nu \u0219tiu \u00een ce m\u0103sur\u0103 se putea ajunge din Maasai Mara p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een Tsavo, ocolind capitala. Ghizii no\u0219tri au \u0219tiut cum e mai bine. +4 0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":36308,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[893,297,688],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-36267","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kenya","category-africa","category-calatorii"],"yoast_head":"\nNairobi - 🇰🇪 Kenya - Uli\u021barnica<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Impresii de calatorie in Kenya - Nairobi, sau dup\u0103 numele de alint Nairobbery. 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