{"id":140,"date":"2012-05-12T08:04:58","date_gmt":"2012-05-12T06:04:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ulitarnica.wordpress.com\/?p=140"},"modified":"2026-07-13T09:06:25","modified_gmt":"2026-07-13T07:06:25","slug":"sfanta-vineri-si-cavaleri-ioaniti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ulitarnica.ro\/wp\/sfanta-vineri-si-cavaleri-ioaniti\/","title":{"rendered":"Rodos – Sf\u00e2nta Vineri \u0219i Cavaleri Ioani\u021bi"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Excursia \u00een Rodos am f\u0103cut-o mai demult, \u00eenainte de-a m\u0103 hot\u0103r\u00e2 s\u0103-mi scriu memoriile c\u0103l\u0103toare \ud83d\ude42 dar,  cu toate c\u0103 amintirile ce mi-au r\u0103mas sunt cam s\u0103r\u0103c\u0103cioase, tot vreau s-o pomenesc aici.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A\u0219adar … am ajuns \u00een Rodos \u00een toamna anului 2006, \u00een septembrie, pe la sf\u00e2r\u0219itul sezonului. Am apelat cu \u00eencredere la serviciile unei firme de turism ( am uitat din p\u0103cate care din ele ) ce mi-a asigurat un zbor charter p\u00e2n\u0103 acolo \u0219i cazare pentru o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103. Am ales un hotel chiar \u00een capital\u0103, \u00een ora\u0219ul Rodos, nu de alta dar nu prea \u00eemi place s\u0103 stau la soare \u0219i-am dorit s\u0103 stau \u00een ora\u0219 \u00een caz c\u0103 m\u0103 plictisesc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

De ce-am ales Rodosul ? \u00cen primul r\u00e2nd pentru c\u0103 se laud\u0103 c-ar fi cea mai \u00eensorit\u0103 insul\u0103 greceasc\u0103, slabe \u0219anse s\u0103 m\u0103 plou\u0103 aici. \u00cen al doilea r\u00e2nd, am venit s\u0103 v\u0103d insula cavalerilor ioani\u021bi, chiar dac\u0103 ei nu mai sunt de mult timp st\u0103p\u00e2nii ei. C\u00e2t despre Colosul din Rodos … a pierit demult bietul de el.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ce-am mai f\u0103cut pe insul\u0103 \u00een afar\u0103 de mult\u0103 plaj\u0103, odihn\u0103 pe s\u0103turate \u0219i plimb\u0103ri seara prin ora\u0219 pe la magazinele de suveniruri? Am c\u0103utat cavaleri ioani\u021bi dar n-am \u00eent\u00e2lnit nici unul.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rodos<\/em><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Printre primele locuri vizitate \u00een ora\u0219ul Rodos a fost Castelul Marelui Maestru. <\/strong><\/em>\u00cen urm\u0103toarele zile m-am plimbat pe metereze lui. E mare, sobru \u0219i impresionant, cu ziduri groase ce par impenetrabile, por\u021bi mari de cetate, case cu steme medievale deasupra u\u0219ilor. Tot de dragul cavalerilor m-am plimbat pe Ippoton<\/strong><\/em>, str\u0103du\u021ba ce se zice c-a r\u0103mas neschimbat\u0103 de pe vremea lor. Bine\u00een\u021beles, nu mi-a ie\u0219it \u00een cale nici un cavaler. Au plecat to\u021bi \u00een Malta dup\u0103 ce Soliman Magnificul i-a \u00eenfr\u00e2nt \u0219i le-a cucerit ora\u0219ul \u00een anul 1522.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

M-am plimbat mult \u0219i prin ora\u0219ul vechi ce se \u00eenghesuie \u00eentre zidurile cet\u0103\u021bii. Mi s-a p\u0103rut foarte pitoresc, mi-au pl\u0103cut str\u0103du\u021bele lui pietruite, milioanele de magazina\u0219e cu flecu\u0219te\u021be pentru turi\u0219ti, restaurantele \u0219i terasele.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"In<\/a>
In jurul cet\u0103\u021bii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"Palatul<\/a>
Palatul Marelui Maestru<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Mozaicuri din palatul Marelui Maestru<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Fort<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Intrarea in port, unde se presupune c\u0103 a stat cr\u0103c\u0103nat Colosul din Rodos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Ippoton – una dintre cele mai bine conservate str\u0103zi medievale<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Vechi mori de v\u00e2nt<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
In jurul cet\u0103\u021bii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Pe str\u0103du\u021be<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Pe str\u0103du\u021be<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Pe str\u0103du\u021be<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Poart\u0103<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Biserici si moschei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Insula Rodos e sc\u0103ldat\u0103 de dou\u0103 m\u0103ri. Coasta de nord e la Marea Egee, mai zbuciumat\u0103 cu v\u00e2nturi multe \u015fi valuri mari, doar \u00ee\u015fi trage numele de la Egeu, cel ce s-a aruncat \u00een mare de sup\u0103rare crez\u00e2nd c\u0103 fiul s\u0103u,  Tezeu, fusese dobor\u00e2t de Minotaur. In sud e Marea Mediteran\u0103. In ora\u0219ul Rodos, aflat \u00een v\u00e2rful nord-estic al insulei se poate face plaj\u0103 la ambele m\u0103ri, la alegere. M\u0103 pot l\u0103uda a\u0219adar c-am f\u0103cut baie \u0219i \u00een Marea Egee \u0219i \u00een Marea Mediteran\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Am mai f\u0103cut doua excursii c\u00e2t am stat pe insul\u0103. Una dintre ele \u00een Lindos, cu o oprire la plaja Tsampika. Cea de-a doua la valea fluturilor.<\/p>\n

Lindos<\/strong><\/em><\/h4>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Lindos e un minunat or\u0103\u0219el alb, ghemuit sub un munte de piatr\u0103 \u00een v\u00e2rful c\u0103ruia anticii au construit o cetate. Pe acropol\u0103 se poate urca pe jos sau apel\u00e2nd la un m\u0103g\u0103ru\u0219 pe post de taximetru.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Acropole\"<\/a>
Acropole<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Sta\u021bia de taximetre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Pe str\u0103du\u021be<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Pe str\u0103du\u021be<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
La teatru<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a>
Pe str\u0103du\u021be<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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La plaja Tsampika<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Petaloudes<\/em><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Valea fluturilor sau Petaloudes este o oaz\u0103 de verdea\u021b\u0103, o vale umed\u0103 unde se adun\u0103 o gramad\u0103 de fluturi Panaxia. Fluturii sunt de fapt molii, duc o via\u021b\u0103 nocturn\u0103 iar diminea\u021ba vin la culcare \u00een aceast\u0103 vale. Dac\u0103 v\u0103 gr\u0103bi\u021bi \u0219i sosi\u021bi diminea\u021ba devreme, ve\u021bi putea vedea zbur\u00e2nd \u0219i c\u00e2\u021biva cheflii int\u00e2rzia\u021bi. Turi\u0219tii sunt avertiza\u021bi s\u0103 nu fac\u0103 mult\u0103 g\u0103l\u0103gie, pentru a le proteja somnul.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Singura amintire fotografic\u0103 din p\u0103durea cu fluturi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

O \u00eent\u00e2mplare ciudat\u0103<\/em><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

In Rodos mi s-a \u00eent\u00e2mplat ceva ciudat. Am \u00eent\u00e2lnit-o pe Sf\u00e2nta Vineri. Am \u0219tiut imediat c\u0103 b\u0103tr\u00e2nica ce mi-a ie\u0219it \u00een cale \u0219i m-a chemat \u00een casa ei, nu este una oarecare. In primul r\u00e2nd, pentru c\u0103 am \u00een\u021beles aproape tot ce mi-a povestit, de\u0219i vorbea \u00een grece\u0219te, iar eu nu \u0219tiu o boab\u0103. In al doilea r\u00e2nd, m-a vr\u0103jit a\u0219a de tare \u00eenc\u00e2t am uitat s\u0103-i fac o fotografie, s\u0103-mi dovedesc mie \u00eens\u0103mi c\u0103 a fost real\u0103. Las\u00e2nd gluma la o parte, s\u0103 v\u0103 spun p\u0103\u021bania…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pentru c\u0103 nu mi-a pl\u0103cut seara greceasc\u0103 la care m\u0103 \u00eenscrisesem ( \u00eenghesuial\u0103 mare, g\u0103l\u0103gie, m\u00e2ncare nu tocmai atr\u0103g\u0103toare, o mul\u021bime de ru\u0219i ame\u021bi\u021bi ) am ie\u0219it la o mic\u0103 plimbare \u00een jurul localului. Inv\u00e2tindu-m\u0103 eu pe str\u0103du\u021be \u0219i pierz\u00e2nd vremea uit\u00e2ndu-m\u0103 la case, dau din \u00eent\u00e2mplare peste o b\u0103tr\u00e2nic\u0103 ce st\u0103tea pe un sc\u0103unel \u00een fa\u021ba u\u0219ii, \u00een r\u0103coarea pl\u0103cut\u0103 a serii. Cum m-a z\u0103rit a \u0219i intrat \u00een vorb\u0103 \u0219i m-a invitat s\u0103-i vizitez gospod\u0103ria.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Era o cas\u0103 b\u0103tr\u00e2neasc\u0103 , veche, cum nu mai sunt multe \u00een vremurile noastre. Avea o singur\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103pere mare, cu desp\u0103r\u021biri invizibile \u00eentre buc\u0103t\u0103rie, dormitor, camera de zi, cu dulapuri \u00eencastrate \u00een perete, cu rafturi prinse tot pe perete,pline cu fotografii. Podul casei era \u0219i el parte component\u0103 a casei, se deschidea liber p\u00e2n\u0103 sub acoperi\u0219. Prin el zburau vesele dou\u0103 r\u00e2ndunele care-\u0219i f\u0103cuser\u0103 cuib sub o grind\u0103, \u0219i care intrau \u0219i ie\u0219eau dup\u0103 voie. \u0218i mi-a prezentat b\u0103tr\u00e2nica toate cele din gospod\u0103rie, ceramica veche, \u0219tergarele frumoase,  apa curent\u0103 ce venea direct \u00een cas\u0103 – \u00eenc\u0103 de pe vremea italienilor care au st\u0103p\u00e2nit insula dup\u0103 primul r\u0103zboi mondial. Mi-a povestit despre familia ei, despre so\u021bul care murise demult, despre copii pleca\u021bi de acas\u0103 departe, \u00een Grecia continental\u0103. Mi i-a prezentat pe fiecare din fotografiile \u021binute cu drag, la loc de cinste, l\u00e2ng\u0103 icoane. Ne-am desp\u0103r\u021bit cu greu, mai erau multe de spus. La plecare am primit un pache\u021bel cu bomboane \u0219i mi s-a strecurat \u00een s\u00e2n o mic\u0103 r\u0103muric\u0103 de busuioc cules din gr\u0103dina liliputan\u0103 din fa\u021ba casei. A fost busuiocul cel mai parfumat pe care l-am mirosit \u00een via\u021ba mea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Este una din amintirile cele mai pl\u0103cute pe care le am, nu numai din sejurul din Rodos, ci din toate c\u0103l\u0103toriile pe care le-am f\u0103cut.<\/p>\n\n\n

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0<\/span><\/a><\/div> <\/div>
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Excursia \u00een Rodos am f\u0103cut-o mai demult, \u00eenainte de-a m\u0103 hot\u0103r\u00e2 s\u0103-mi scriu memoriile c\u0103l\u0103toare \ud83d\ude42 dar,  cu toate c\u0103 amintirile ce mi-au r\u0103mas sunt cam s\u0103r\u0103c\u0103cioase, tot vreau s-o pomenesc aici. A\u0219adar … am ajuns \u00een Rodos \u00een toamna anului 2006, \u00een septembrie, pe la sf\u00e2r\u0219itul sezonului. Am apelat cu \u00eencredere la serviciile unei firme de turism ( am uitat din p\u0103cate care din ele ) ce mi-a asigurat un zbor charter p\u00e2n\u0103 acolo \u0219i cazare pentru o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103. Am ales un hotel chiar \u00een capital\u0103, \u00een ora\u0219ul Rodos, nu de alta dar nu prea \u00eemi place s\u0103 stau la soare \u0219i-am dorit s\u0103 stau \u00een ora\u0219 \u00een caz c\u0103 m\u0103 plictisesc. De ce-am ales Rodosul ? \u00cen primul r\u00e2nd pentru c\u0103 se laud\u0103 c-ar fi cea mai \u00eensorit\u0103 insul\u0103 greceasc\u0103, slabe \u0219anse s\u0103 m\u0103 plou\u0103 aici. \u00cen al doilea r\u00e2nd, am venit s\u0103 v\u0103d insula cavalerilor ioani\u021bi, chiar dac\u0103 ei nu mai sunt de mult timp st\u0103p\u00e2nii ei. C\u00e2t despre Colosul din Rodos … a pierit demult bietul de el. Ce-am mai f\u0103cut pe insul\u0103 \u00een afar\u0103 de mult\u0103 plaj\u0103, odihn\u0103 pe s\u0103turate \u0219i plimb\u0103ri seara prin ora\u0219 pe la magazinele de suveniruri? Am c\u0103utat cavaleri ioani\u021bi dar n-am \u00eent\u00e2lnit nici unul. Rodos Printre primele locuri vizitate \u00een ora\u0219ul Rodos a fost Castelul Marelui Maestru. \u00cen urm\u0103toarele zile m-am plimbat pe metereze lui. E mare, sobru \u0219i impresionant, cu ziduri groase ce par impenetrabile, por\u021bi mari de cetate, case cu steme medievale deasupra u\u0219ilor. Tot de dragul cavalerilor m-am plimbat pe Ippoton, str\u0103du\u021ba ce se zice c-a r\u0103mas neschimbat\u0103 de pe vremea lor. Bine\u00een\u021beles, nu mi-a ie\u0219it \u00een cale nici un cavaler. Au plecat to\u021bi \u00een Malta dup\u0103 ce Soliman Magnificul i-a \u00eenfr\u00e2nt \u0219i le-a cucerit ora\u0219ul \u00een anul 1522. M-am plimbat mult \u0219i prin ora\u0219ul vechi ce se \u00eenghesuie \u00eentre zidurile cet\u0103\u021bii. Mi s-a p\u0103rut foarte pitoresc, mi-au pl\u0103cut str\u0103du\u021bele lui pietruite, milioanele de magazina\u0219e cu flecu\u0219te\u021be pentru turi\u0219ti, restaurantele \u0219i terasele. Insula Rodos e sc\u0103ldat\u0103 de dou\u0103 m\u0103ri. Coasta de nord e la Marea Egee, mai zbuciumat\u0103 cu v\u00e2nturi multe \u015fi valuri mari, doar \u00ee\u015fi trage numele de la Egeu, cel ce s-a aruncat \u00een mare de sup\u0103rare crez\u00e2nd c\u0103 fiul s\u0103u,  Tezeu, fusese dobor\u00e2t de Minotaur. In sud e Marea Mediteran\u0103. In ora\u0219ul Rodos, aflat \u00een v\u00e2rful nord-estic al insulei se poate face plaj\u0103 la ambele m\u0103ri, la alegere. M\u0103 pot l\u0103uda a\u0219adar c-am f\u0103cut baie \u0219i \u00een Marea Egee \u0219i \u00een Marea Mediteran\u0103. Am mai f\u0103cut doua excursii c\u00e2t am stat pe insul\u0103. Una dintre ele \u00een Lindos, cu o oprire la plaja Tsampika. Cea de-a doua la valea fluturilor. Lindos Lindos e un minunat or\u0103\u0219el alb, ghemuit sub un munte de piatr\u0103 \u00een v\u00e2rful c\u0103ruia anticii au construit o cetate. Pe acropol\u0103 se poate urca pe jos sau apel\u00e2nd la un m\u0103g\u0103ru\u0219 pe post de taximetru. Petaloudes Valea fluturilor sau Petaloudes este o oaz\u0103 de verdea\u021b\u0103, o vale umed\u0103 unde se adun\u0103 o gramad\u0103 de fluturi Panaxia. Fluturii sunt de fapt molii, duc o via\u021b\u0103 nocturn\u0103 iar diminea\u021ba vin la culcare \u00een aceast\u0103 vale. Dac\u0103 v\u0103 gr\u0103bi\u021bi \u0219i sosi\u021bi diminea\u021ba devreme, ve\u021bi putea vedea zbur\u00e2nd \u0219i c\u00e2\u021biva cheflii int\u00e2rzia\u021bi. Turi\u0219tii sunt avertiza\u021bi s\u0103 nu fac\u0103 mult\u0103 g\u0103l\u0103gie, pentru a le proteja somnul. O \u00eent\u00e2mplare ciudat\u0103 In Rodos mi s-a \u00eent\u00e2mplat ceva ciudat. Am \u00eent\u00e2lnit-o pe Sf\u00e2nta Vineri. Am \u0219tiut imediat c\u0103 b\u0103tr\u00e2nica ce mi-a ie\u0219it \u00een cale \u0219i m-a chemat \u00een casa ei, nu este una oarecare. In primul r\u00e2nd, pentru c\u0103 am \u00een\u021beles aproape tot ce mi-a povestit, de\u0219i vorbea \u00een grece\u0219te, iar eu nu \u0219tiu o boab\u0103. In al doilea r\u00e2nd, m-a vr\u0103jit a\u0219a de tare \u00eenc\u00e2t am uitat s\u0103-i fac o fotografie, s\u0103-mi dovedesc mie \u00eens\u0103mi c\u0103 a fost real\u0103. Las\u00e2nd gluma la o parte, s\u0103 v\u0103 spun p\u0103\u021bania… Pentru c\u0103 nu mi-a pl\u0103cut seara greceasc\u0103 la care m\u0103 \u00eenscrisesem ( \u00eenghesuial\u0103 mare, g\u0103l\u0103gie, m\u00e2ncare nu tocmai atr\u0103g\u0103toare, o mul\u021bime de ru\u0219i ame\u021bi\u021bi ) am ie\u0219it la o mic\u0103 plimbare \u00een jurul localului. Inv\u00e2tindu-m\u0103 eu pe str\u0103du\u021be \u0219i pierz\u00e2nd vremea uit\u00e2ndu-m\u0103 la case, dau din \u00eent\u00e2mplare peste o b\u0103tr\u00e2nic\u0103 ce st\u0103tea pe un sc\u0103unel \u00een fa\u021ba u\u0219ii, \u00een r\u0103coarea pl\u0103cut\u0103 a serii. Cum m-a z\u0103rit a \u0219i intrat \u00een vorb\u0103 \u0219i m-a invitat s\u0103-i vizitez gospod\u0103ria. Era o cas\u0103 b\u0103tr\u00e2neasc\u0103 , veche, cum nu mai sunt multe \u00een vremurile noastre. Avea o singur\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103pere mare, cu desp\u0103r\u021biri invizibile \u00eentre buc\u0103t\u0103rie, dormitor, camera de zi, cu dulapuri \u00eencastrate \u00een perete, cu rafturi prinse tot pe perete,pline cu fotografii. Podul casei era \u0219i el parte component\u0103 a casei, se deschidea liber p\u00e2n\u0103 sub acoperi\u0219. Prin el zburau vesele dou\u0103 r\u00e2ndunele care-\u0219i f\u0103cuser\u0103 cuib sub o grind\u0103, \u0219i care intrau \u0219i ie\u0219eau dup\u0103 voie. \u0218i mi-a prezentat b\u0103tr\u00e2nica toate cele din gospod\u0103rie, ceramica veche, \u0219tergarele frumoase,  apa curent\u0103 ce venea direct \u00een cas\u0103 – \u00eenc\u0103 de pe vremea italienilor care au st\u0103p\u00e2nit insula dup\u0103 primul r\u0103zboi mondial. Mi-a povestit despre familia ei, despre so\u021bul care murise demult, despre copii pleca\u021bi de acas\u0103 departe, \u00een Grecia continental\u0103. Mi i-a prezentat pe fiecare din fotografiile \u021binute cu drag, la loc de cinste, l\u00e2ng\u0103 icoane. Ne-am desp\u0103r\u021bit cu greu, mai erau multe de spus. La plecare am primit un pache\u021bel cu bomboane \u0219i mi s-a strecurat \u00een s\u00e2n o mic\u0103 r\u0103muric\u0103 de busuioc cules din gr\u0103dina liliputan\u0103 din fa\u021ba casei. A fost busuiocul cel mai parfumat pe care l-am mirosit \u00een via\u021ba mea. Este una din amintirile cele mai pl\u0103cute pe care le am, nu numai din sejurul din Rodos, ci din toate c\u0103l\u0103toriile pe care le-am f\u0103cut. 0 0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":225,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[18,688,2,1002],"tags":[1037],"class_list":["post-140","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-grecia","category-calatorii","category-europa","category-rhodos","tag-palmares-patrimoniu-unesco"],"yoast_head":"\nRodos - 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